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Routes in Frazier Lake

Cold Forged Steel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leap of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point, The T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Kalakay, Skyler Pauli & Joshua Apple Aug. 2005
Page Views: 2,736 total, 33/month
Shared By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Mar 25, 2011 with updates
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Glue them fingernails down and get ready for some slab! Neat fins and knobs litter this route and are of general great quality. A very enjoyable climb and worth the effort to get there.

P1: 5.9
Climb the face up to the medium sized tree and ledge. 2 bolt anchor

P2: 5.10b
Climb on up the steep slab following bolts and supplementing with nuts/cams. Near the top go slightly right to gain the belay ledge. Large pine tree is above you. Longest pitch on the route!

P3: 5.10a
Climb up the steep pocketed face and head right angling for the large tree that you will set up as an anchor. Alternatively you can build a gear anchor just the left of the tree.

P4: 5.9
Climb up a water streak following bolts aiming for a small ledge with a tree on it.

P5: 5.10a
The money pitch! Climb up and left to gain a large slab littered with chert knobs and other little features. Drop them heels and get your slab on and finish up on top of the large ledge system. Tree belay. Head right for the summit (5.5) or left towards the large tree to rappel.

Location

This route starts in the middle of the main formation up and just a little left from the large cave if approached from Ainger Lake. Look for the bolt line just off the ground. Enjoy!

Protection

A light rack consisting of a rack of nuts and singles .5-2 should be sufficient. It can be climbed as a sport climb without placing anything if comfortable at the grade. I would roll mostly alpine draws as sometimes the routes and placements are a little wandering. 18-20 draws and webbing for the anchors. Can be rapped with single rope off of the large tree. From summit two ropes are required to rap.

Photos

Climbed this a few weeks ago and it was in great shape. A confident 5.10 climber could definitely do this without any gear. But if you do bring a few pieces I recommend building a gear anchor on top of P3.

Replaced some of the webbing on the lower rap station. Could probably use another loop of cord and another link or rap ring. A single 60m will just reach the ground. Aug 28, 2017
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
great fun day. agreed 1hr hike from car to climb. single rack from .3 - #1 BD seemed sufficient. worthy to note: there were no tree slings stations at all on any pitch. so bring your cordelette/PSD. it would seem appropriate for this route to receive a couple bolted stations and stay within the style. also: crossing the gully at the top of P2 can be tricky due to loose rock, dirt, fractured features. Jul 31, 2017
Keatan
Bozeman, MT
Keatan   Bozeman, MT
The pitch-by-pitch bolt break-down:

Pitch 1: 9 bolts
Pitch 2: 17 bolts
Pitch 3: 8 bolts
Pitch 4: 8 bolts
Pitch 5: 14 bolts

Top of Pitch 3 and Pitch 5 are natural anchors off tress, all other belays are bolted. Webbing on the tree is good as of 7/17/16. Jul 18, 2016
Colin O'Brien
Bozeman, MT
Colin O'Brien   Bozeman, MT
Climbed this in July, and I agree with previous posters. Only one piece (either a .5 or .75 will do) is useful on the 3rd pitch to protect a somewhat delicate 10a move. While pitch 3 does have some loose rock and a high first bolt to start, the moves are low 5th class. The gear belay is unnecessary at the top of pitch 3 (a giant tree is 5 feet to the right) and I can't imagine placing any other pieces on the route. It is tightly bolted throughout. 21 draws and material for anchors on a tree or bolts are all you need. A single .75 BD will get you through the 3rd pitch.

All loose bolts/washers have been tightened and replaced. This is a fantastic climb in a great setting! Aug 3, 2015
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
4 stars were it not for some VERY loose belay stations. Knocked a bunch downhill on this one. Definitely one of the coolest limestone (or any rock type) slabs I've ever been on, particularly the last pitch. Crazy features, and crazy grip.

Leave packs where the trail intersects the side of the formation to avoid having to walk ALL the way back to the base and then back up the heinous loose gully.

First bolt on the third pitch is way high and off to the left. Third pitch actually felt cruxy to me. Best to belay from the tree to protect the belayer in case of a factor 2, and once the first bolt is clipped, belayer can move over to a more convenient spot at the base of the pitch. Gear at the base is sparse so a gear anchor isn't really possible.

If you're comfortable at the grade, you don't need any gear except anchor building material for this. There are only a couple scattered (not so bad) runouts where small cams (.5 or so) or medium/large nuts serve the task nicely. Leave the full rack at home though! Sep 8, 2014
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Let's see, Grade IV standards... North Ridge of the Grand Teton, any route on the Incredible Hulk, Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock in Yosemite, East Buttress of El Cap, Pingora's Northeast Face... and Cold Forged Steel!!

Commitment grades do seem meaningless anymore with people commonly climbing grade VI in a day. For people who do care about such things, grade IV does seem a little gratuitous by about two levels. It's a grade II.

Great little adventure if my memory serves right. Hopefully it's cleaned up some since my 2005 ascent! Jul 10, 2013
Kevin Macartney
Laramie, WY
 
Kevin Macartney   Laramie, WY
 
Personally I can't consider this grade IV even with the hike... ~1 hour from car to crag, 5 hours to the summit and back to the bags, and ~1.5 hours back to the car. We moved at a relaxed pace the whole time making for what I would consider an "average" speed.

Depending on skill level, experience, and cojones the most supplemental gear I would bring would be a single run of cams 0.3 to 0.75 and a run of stoppers. More experienced and bold climbers could get away without any extra gear, but pitch 3 would prove airy for most parties.

Also of note many of the bolts after the first pitch are missing washers and you may want to hand tighten them as you go by... Jul 9, 2013
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.10b
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.10b
Near the top of pitch 2, avoid your natural mountaineering instincts to head ever so slightly left towards the obvious ledge / gully. The route stays just a couple feet off to the right of this in order to eek out a few more feet of climbing, and, more importantly, avoid some pretty heinous looseness that would head directly towards your belayer.

We carried a set of stoppers along with C4's from #.5-2 and that was *way* overkill. Only necessary placement was one cam (.5 iirc) approx 50' into the third pitch.

Roped up and ready to climb almost exactly 1 hour after leaving the car. Oct 15, 2012