Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 850 ft (258 m), 7 pitches
FA: Tom Kalakay, Bill Dockins, Skyler Pauli (2004)
Page Views: 1,352 total · 11/month
Shared By: M A on Jul 17, 2013
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

An interesting climb in a great setting with some pleasurable climbing on sharp pockets and crimps.

Walk up the scree 75 yards past the start to Cold-Forged Steel until you spot a little platform above the talus with a bolt up and right. Poor rock quality right off the ledge.

Pitch 1: 5.9
Climb past a few bolts through two bushes and trend left following bolts. Opportunity for gear as well. Two bolt belay on a little ledge. Rock quality gets better as you go.

Pitch 2: 5.10b
Climb the beautiful black rock following bolts. This pitch wanders a good amount so lots of runners help. Climb past a large crack/ ledge with gear and continue up to a two bolt belay.

Pitch 3: 5.10d
Aesthetically appealing and just as good to climb! Climb up the vertical black rock following bolts on great pockets and positioning. Move up and left on easy terrain to a large tree belay.

Pitch 4: 5.6
Climb up and right from tree and cross the large gully up to a little ledge with 3 small trees. There is really one safe spot to cross the gully so don't climb too far up before crossing.

Pitch 5: 5.10b
Great fun. Go straight up from belay and cruise above. Find a tree sticking out of a small grassy gully and belay off of it.

Pitch 6: 5.4
Climb grassy gully trending left and escape to a flat scree ledge.

Pitch 7: 5.5
Climb the summit tower on easy terrain and enjoy the great views.

Location

75 yards uphill from Cold Forged Steel. Spot a little alcove and a bolt.

Same Rappel as every route on the buttress. Bring extra webbing just in case.

Protection

15 quick-draws, half alpine. Cams from .5 to 2 , along with a set of wires. Webbing for slinging trees at belays.

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