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Routes in Entrance Dome

Big Sleep, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Falconlore T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Circle T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: MS & MTC 1995
Page Views: 1,013 total, 12/month
Shared By: Abandoned User on Mar 10, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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The second pitch is more like 120'. My 60 meter rope made it to the pine tree on top of the fourth pitch with a few feet to spare, (I stayed on the arête and was anchored to the top of the third pitch). Overall, the kind of route I love, mixed bolts and natural pro. Dec 6, 2015
Full Circle does have some run-outs; mostly on easier terrain, there is some route finding and some tricky placements, and a death bloc on pitch 2, but the route is mostly great rock with great pro. The bolts look as new as they did in 95. We did not use the #3 or any tricams.

We did it in 4 pitches. The last pitch; up the aerate was 215' although you could unclip and walk up. It is better to belay about 20' past the crux; you can step down into the gully and belay off of a tree in the shade.

Years ago we climbed Falconlore and Full Circle in a day.

To get off. walk north along the top and down slightly to a tree. Same as for Big Sleep, One Double rope rap gets you down. If you happen to have only one rope; min 60m, there is a mid point rap, but it is not very good. It is smarter to bring 2 ropes. We did add webbing to both raps.

The approach to Entrance Dome is much farther right than you think at first, about half way up it traverses back left and up the gully at the end, right to the start of the route. Apr 7, 2013
Matt I
Memphis, Tn
 
Matt I   Memphis, Tn
 
There's a great slopey 5.6 on the right ridge line that has one or two 5.8 moves but is mostly friction climbing. Worth an hour of your time. Follow the obvious line to a tree with an old static line anchor. Rap into the drainage. Mar 22, 2011