Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: KR & MP
Page Views: 931 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brian Benedon on Mar 14, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The Big Sleep is a traditional style back country adventure route put up in the early 80's. Be prepared for run-outs on less than perfect gear. The route has great exposure, mostly good rock and nice belay ledges. See the picture for Entrance dome, Big Sleep is G. The Big Sleep starts, "Breaks out" at the top of the big gully below the arch.
To get up there you can walk right and up until you can scramble up to the big ledge, then bushwhack across the ledge ( below Falconlore) and belay 30' below the chimney. I prefer to;
1) Climb the short low angle slab on the far right side of Entrance dome. there is a weakness with a couple placements.
2) Walk across the ledge to the left, climb the 50' chimney. Belay at a single bolt next to a 0 tcu placement.
3) Step left onto the face, traverse left then work up and right to a lone bolt, move right, up, then angle left and up to a belay alcove with one bolt and a 1" cam. 5.9 110'
4) Traverse right and up slightly, pass a new bolt next to the old bolt and continue traversing right, after 50' or so step down 5' around the corner to a belay stance right of a short book. 5.8+
5) Continue traversing right then follow a dike ramp system up and right until you can climb straight up 30' to the top. 5.8
walk right and down, one double rope rap off of a long tied runner into the gully.

Location

Entrance dome has an upper more prominent summit in the center; see Whores of Babylon. The dome also has a right side which sort of lays onto the main dome. The right side contains; Full Circle, The Big Sleep, Falconlore and others. These routes do not summit the main face.
There are cairned routes up to Entrance Dome, they lead you to the base of Full Circle, from there walk right along the base.

Protection

We used a run of cams from 0 tcu - #4 cam with a few extras in the mid range. We also used a few sm-med nuts. we did not use tri-cams. Don't for get long runners.

Photos