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Routes in Great North Wall

Barnyard View T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Wall, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Humper TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slandeross TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 775 total, 9/month
Shared By: Mike Madsen on Mar 2, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Slanderous is a pure face climb in Palisades. Start by climbing outside right of the cave, holds are surprising hard to get some being slick and others just not the best of quality. Move to the left when exiting the cave top. Slanderous follows an obvious Black streak down the Great North Wall. Best time to do it is on a sunny day in winter as you can belay from down below where as summer you top belay. First 2-3 moves are pure friction with tiny crimps and side holds. Towards the top you get a few better holds but its very tricky. Beautiful line.

Location

When parking at the bridge parking lot right when you cross the bridge. Park and hike the trail along the river heading north This is the last cliff before the trail steepens tremendously.

Protection

Nice trees and cracks at top to sling up an anchor.

Photos

Jim Slichter
Hill City, SD
  5.12
Jim Slichter   Hill City, SD
  5.12
If you are into aerial bouldering with a rope, this is the climb for you. Each of the hard sections is followed by a rest (or at least semi-rest) spot where you can shake out and get ready for the next section. The start is probably the technical crux with the traverse above the roof being extremely balancey and insecure. Jan 7, 2014
Jim Slichter
Hill City, SD
  5.12
Jim Slichter   Hill City, SD
  5.12
Since there seems to be some question about where the route actually goes, here is the scoop. Start in the cave and pull the roof on the right side - hand holds are small but positive, footholds are minimal to non-existent. Once you get established on the face above the roof, move left about 3-4 feet. The route goes straight up from here from on tiny crimps with a dynamic lunge at the top. The lunge is made from a stemming position and was always at best a 50-50 move for me. The entire route is quite continuous with probably 6 or 7 sections that are 5.11 or harder.

The name of the climb comes from the first three people to ascend the route - jim SLichter, tom ANDERson, and greg fOSSum with some artistic license taken to account for the change in spelling. Mar 29, 2011