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Melvin

5.11a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2 from 12 votes
FA: Kelly Rich, David Rubine and Tom Davis 6/1991; FA Direct Start Kelly Rich 3/2005
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > E Side > Discovery Wall
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Description

Loose at start. Shares anchors with Racing Stripes.

Location

Melvin is located at the southern(left) end of Discovery Wall just right of Racing Stripes.

Protection

6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chains for rappel. Original Start is in the Racing Stripes corner.  Needs 1.5" piece to make it safe getting to first bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hilary B on the upper headwall.
[Hide Photo] Hilary B on the upper headwall.
Charles Milligan on, Melvin.
[Hide Photo] Charles Milligan on, Melvin.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Surprisingly fun, and overhanging, line. Climbs much better than it looks. Heads up for the belayer, as there is some choss still waiting to come down. Feb 1, 2021
John F Kim
San Jose, CA
  5.11a R
[Hide Comment] not sure I can recommend. Start has lots of choss until 2nd bolt and you'll deck or hit a ledge if you fall before clipping 2nd bolt. But it's a clean and overhanging face for the 3rd-6th bolts and well-protected once you clip the 3rd bolt. The headwall has big jugs that are far apart, requiring good reach using small crimps and/or dyno moves to get from jug to jug. Anchors no longer have chains and consist of two open hooks (no gates) on the right, a 3rd bolt with a quicklink just left of the hooks, and a new 4th bolt 4 feet left of the hooks that has only a hanger on it. Probably I'd recommend hanging a quad anchor on one hook and the quicklink, or if you have slings to extend your anchor, you can use the new bolt to the left and the bolt with the quicklink on the right. When the last climber cleans, he/she can lower off the hooks but make sure to keep tension on the rope so it can't kink and flip out of the hooks. Sep 20, 2023
Kelly Rich
Santa Cruz, CA
[Hide Comment] Originally this route started up Racing Stripes, then headed right. Interestingly, there was an old piton on the traverse to the right when we first did the route. It's probably still there. I later came back and added what is now the first bolt for the direct start, by hanging on a hook. Sorry it's a bit run but I figured if you're climbing .11a, you could handle the scramble. Done just after Tom did Racing Stripes, I still laugh. Nov 16, 2023