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Routes in The Highball

Delerium Tremens V5 6C
Highball Arete, The V6 7A R
Original Route, The V3-4 6A+
Trickle in Time V8 7B
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Chet Gross aka chetroy around 2000
Page Views: 1,662 total, 20/month
Shared By: skinny legs and all on Feb 2, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Trickle in Time is Chet Gross' first masterpiece and probably the most revered problem in all of Mt. Gretna. It climbs the subtle sloping lip of a steep roof and in true diabase style; surprisingly finicky and technical despite the severe overhang. A testament to Chet's ability to envision problems from seemingly unclimbable features.

Start sitting on the rail. Heel hook and head for the triangle shaped hold, which is more of a feature than a hold, that you will utilize for both hands in the near future. This problem will work your right hamstring. Get established on this hold (will help if it is cold and not humid), match with a gaston-ish meat wrap grip and make a dynamic move to snag the two and a half finger crimp. Now you need to attain the sidepull/crack/fingerlock thing with a go-again. A tiny foot lies far under the overhang for the left foot to aid in the transition between crimp and crack.

The crux is over, toe hook the left foot on the starting rail which will allow you to hook your right heel over your hand (probably the only time I have ever had to do this on diabase) to grope the right hand up your choice of a blank wall around the corner or a sharp arete, aiming for the apex of the arete with the top of the boulder that forms a nice pinch. A right knee scum is possible. Pull around the right face, traverse the lip and topout. This problem has been done as an eliminate without using the crack and is most likely V9 that way.

Trickle in Time is the problem that almost everyone considers the benchmark for V8 at Mt. Gretna. It is a problem that feels impossible until one works out the subtitles. In optimal conditions with low temperature and humidity, this problem feels easier. (in my opinion it could be a sandbag V6 at one or two granite bouldering areas I can think of). A guaranteed full body workout.

Location

Not in sight of the Highball boulder. Walk past the Highball into the woods. There is a faint trail. Skirt along the level terrain at the base of the hill which leads to the Matrix for a few hundred meters, heading slightly downhill. the boulder is by itself and the problem is on the far side of the face as one approaches, it is fairly nondescript. Look left at the first large boulder you encounter and you will see a striking overhang.

Protection

A pad or two, it will help if one is thin due to dab potential.

Photos

molony
  V8-
molony  
  V8-
Ass-draggery notwithstanding, this is one of the best boulder problems I've ever been on. Thought provoking, great movement, and some incredible features.
Go do it.
Now. Nov 18, 2012