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Routes in My Secret Garden

American Beauty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bettie Page T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brazilian Wax Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desert Landscape T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golddigger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gutter Slut T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurts So Good T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jailbait T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Little Mutt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lolita T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Milla T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Night Moves T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plaid Skirts T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plan B T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Cougar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rawdawgin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shady Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turning Tricks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twiggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vixen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: 2009
Page Views: 163 total, 2/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Jan 18, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the large crack then step right onto the face.

Location

See area description.

Protection

mixed bolts and gear

Photos

Hamish Malin
Fredericksburg, VA
  5.7
Hamish Malin   Fredericksburg, VA
  5.7
OK, but where one stops placing gear in crack and transitions to face could be climber dependent and driven by height, risk aversion, etc. - I still think climbers should be wary of the sharp edge while lowering/cleaning. I would also argue that it's a cleaner climb, albeit possibly more difficult, if one stays in the crack. To each his/her own, however - I find myself desperate for some offwidth hence the variation. FWIW, the face moves were nice as well!

Cheers,
Hamish

ps - just saw your comment. Why doesn't MP update users when there's a reply to a route comment??!? Sep 10, 2017
Karl Kiser  
 
The route was set to climb the face, hence the bolt, and not use the wide crack to the left for gear. We climbed up the large crack then stepped onto the face and clipped the bolt as the first piece of gear. There was no rope issue when protected via the face. But clearly people need to aware of a sharp edge on the climb. Jul 21, 2017
Hamish Malin
Fredericksburg, VA
  5.7
Hamish Malin   Fredericksburg, VA
  5.7
FYI on gear placement, as the first pic was my lead: This route leads better without bolt to right; I actually didn't clip the blue draw in picture when leading (gear was pre-placed on toprope). Climb took a larger (4.5) cam lower down, but would go easier with an even larger one. The cam in pic is ~3.5, followed by a hex and two tri-cams in pockets off to right. Tri-cam placements are bomber when weighted with some excess gear. IMO using bolt would only add excessive rope drag and risk of chopping rope (see below).

Also be warned, when cleaning gear from top down your rope can be exposed to a very sharp edge on right side of crack ~20ft up; I managed to expose my rope core on this while lowering and cleaning. Be vigilant or have your follower clean from bottom up.

Lead is especially fun w/out bolt to right as you can commit to the squeeze chimney -> offwidth. Probably goes at a higher grade if you fully commit to crack.... cheers ;) Jul 17, 2017