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Routes in My Secret Garden

American Beauty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bettie Page T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brazilian Wax Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desert Landscape T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golddigger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gutter Slut T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurts So Good T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jailbait T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Little Mutt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lolita T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Milla T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Night Moves T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plaid Skirts T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plan B T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Cougar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rawdawgin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shady Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turning Tricks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twiggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vixen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

Left Side

The beautiful face to the right of an arching right facing dihedral.

Turning Tricks 5.10 quality
Night Moves 5.10 quality
Shady Lady 5.9
Hurts So Good 5.11- quality

Middle Section

A multipart section downhill of a large evergreen tree at the end of a ledge.

Milla 5.8-
Twiggy 5.8

Routes located above the small cave.

Plaid Skirts 5.7+ quality
American Beauty 5.8 quality

Routes located slightly downhill from the cave.

Lolita  5.6+ quality
Little Mutt  5.6

Routes located on rock at a right angle to the previous climbs.

Vixen 5.7
Plan B 5.11- quality
Bettie Page 5.9

Right Section

The  first rock found when approaching the crag.

Desert Landscape 5.11 quality
Gutter Slut 5.8+
Brazilian Wax Job 5.9
Pocket Cougar 5.11- quality
Rawdawgin 5.11- R quality
Jailbait 5.10+
Golddigger 5.11b/c quality

Getting There


This climbing area is located uphill and north of the Fin. Walk down the La Luz trail and cross the talus above the Fin (north & east), cross the old La Luz Trail and find the ridge of rock. This rock, averaging perhaps 170 feet in height, is also downhill and right of Rat’s Rock. Completed routes are noted left to right. One 60m rope is adequate for all the raps from bolted anchors and chains. There are no sport routes, all routes require gear. All bolts were hand drilled, painted and kept to a safe minimum.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at My Secret Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
This is a really great area, and it is truly not a sport area!! Lots of quality routes however there is some loose rock, especially at the top. I hope people don't go here to much!! Feb 3, 2011

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