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Routes in Convenience Cliff

Breaking the Mold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Corner Market T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five and Dime S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kum & Go S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kwik-E-Mart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pump and Run S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Self Serve S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Son T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thank You, Come Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bolted By John Garlough, Kevin Capps and Jay Samuelson. FA Kevin Capps
Page Views: 3,304 total · 36/month
Shared By: Jay Samuelson on Dec 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The route: [Suggest Change]

This is an beautiful face climb that will test your core, creativity, and crimp strength. Start out by gaining a slopey ledge, and begin the interesting and increasingly difficult movement up wavy black and orange rock. A few moves trending right up a seam will lead you to a decent stance and a chance to size up the crux. Fire through the face on small crimps to get a somewhat decent ledge where you can make the final clip, and get ready for the big toss. Catch a decent hold that is just waiting to tear your fingers up if you hit it wrong, get the feet up, and grab the finishing jug, which is also the top of the cliff. Clip the anchors or top this thing out like they did in the day's of yore, and you have just Broken the Mold, my friend.

Location: [Suggest Change]

Breaking the Mold climbs up the sweeping face on the left side of Convenience Cliff - currently the farthest left bolted route on the cliff.

Protection: [Suggest Change]

6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.

  • **There are still some loose flakes and chips on this route, mostly lower down and aren't any holds you need or use. Not a whole lot, but be cautious of the flake peeling potential and you'll be fine.

Photos

Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12b
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12b
This route has quality rock on the top portion for a climb that deserves it! Thanks, Jay! Dec 16, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
Way to crush this thing on the FA, Kevin! It was really impressive to see you fire this thing first go, while it was snowing! And when you hadn't even pulled all the moves on toprope! So psyched this thing went down like that, it really couldn't have gone any better! Congrats, man, can't wait to get back out there and climb this one! Dec 16, 2010
Nice work, guys!!! Looks like a great route! And sending in the snow.... I love the style!! Good start to the winter bolt and send season!! Kevin...need I say more!! You're a beast that likes to run with the freaks!!!! Can't wait to get back out soon!! Dec 16, 2010
Got a chance to TR on this rig today!!! Sounds crazy, but it was even better that it looks because it's a beautiful line!!! Can believe this section was wall hasn't seen any action until now!!! It's the line that define's this wall. Yes.. it's classic. Can't wait to have the power to lead this hog!! Dec 22, 2010
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12b
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12b
Awesome, Luke! I'm glad you got to get on it, and I agree that it is a very defining line and also very fun. Great also for cold days because it faces the sun and is very high in the canyon. You will lead it very soon, breaking your back and leg sometimes takes a couple months to recover from...you're an animal. Dec 23, 2010
chinos
 
chinos  
 
It was a pleasure to belay Kevin on the FA. He cranked this thing in fine style. Hope to be back in the canyon and putting in more quality lines with you guys soon. Cheers. Jan 9, 2011
Nolan Robertson
  5.12b
Nolan Robertson  
  5.12b
I love the committing cruxes! This line felt really hard at the grade, but maybe that's because it was really hot and I am bad at dynos. Apr 12, 2017
I spent a lot of time trying to figure the beta to reach the clipping ledge for the last bolt. I couldn't come up with anything that worked with the crimps. I ended up doing a dyno to the ledge beneath the last bolt, then another big move from there to get to the chains. It was really fun that way, but it felt hard, and I can't help but think that holds have broken! Or maybe I missed something? Mar 10, 2018

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