To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Breaking the Mold
5.12b,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.4 from 39
votes
FA: bolted By John Garlough, Kevin Capps and Jay Samuelson. FA Kevin Capps
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Convenience Cliff
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation Bumbling Stock Evil Area Ghost Crag Highlander Skinny Legs Stumbling Block Tetanus Garden Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
The route:
This is an beautiful face climb that will test your core, creativity, and crimp strength. Start out by gaining a slopey ledge, and begin the interesting and increasingly difficult movement up wavy black and orange rock. A few moves trending right up a seam will lead you to a decent stance and a chance to size up the crux. Fire through the face on small crimps to get a somewhat decent ledge where you can make the final clip, and get ready for the big toss. Catch a decent hold that is just waiting to tear your fingers up if you hit it wrong, get the feet up, and grab the finishing jug, which is also the top of the cliff. Clip the anchors or top this thing out like they did in the day's of yore, and you have just Broken the Mold, my friend.
Location:
Breaking the Mold climbs up the sweeping face on the left side of Convenience Cliff - currently the farthest left bolted route on the cliff.
Protection:
6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.
**There are still some loose flakes and chips on this route, mostly lower down and aren't any holds you need or use. Not a whole lot, but be cautious of the flake peeling potential and you'll be fine.
[Hide Photo] I went up to Convenience Cliff after seeing it from the road to check it out and investigate any potential lines that may be looming up there. I wasn't sure if the left side of the cliff would prov…
[Hide Photo] John finishing off the bolting job on Breaking the Mold in the snow. Nice.
[Hide Photo] The route. You can see some of the bolts.
[Hide Comment] Way to crush this thing on the FA, Kevin! It was really impressive to see you fire this thing first go, while it was snowing! And when you hadn't even pulled all the moves on toprope! So psyched this thing went down like that, it really couldn't have gone any better! Congrats, man, can't wait to get back out there and climb this one!
Dec 16, 2010
[Hide Comment] Nice work, guys!!! Looks like a great route! And sending in the snow.... I love the style!! Good start to the winter bolt and send season!! Kevin...need I say more!! You're a beast that likes to run with the freaks!!!! Can't wait to get back out soon!!
Dec 16, 2010
[Hide Comment] Got a chance to TR on this rig today!!! Sounds crazy, but it was even better that it looks because it's a beautiful line!!! Can believe this section was wall hasn't seen any action until now!!! It's the line that define's this wall. Yes.. it's classic. Can't wait to have the power to lead this hog!!
Dec 22, 2010
[Hide Comment] Awesome, Luke! I'm glad you got to get on it, and I agree that it is a very defining line and also very fun. Great also for cold days because it faces the sun and is very high in the canyon. You will lead it very soon, breaking your back and leg sometimes takes a couple months to recover from...you're an animal.
Dec 23, 2010
[Hide Comment] It was a pleasure to belay Kevin on the FA. He cranked this thing in fine style. Hope to be back in the canyon and putting in more quality lines with you guys soon. Cheers.
Jan 9, 2011
[Hide Comment] I love the committing cruxes! This line felt really hard at the grade, but maybe that's because it was really hot and I am bad at dynos.
Apr 12, 2017
[Hide Comment] I spent a lot of time trying to figure the beta to reach the clipping ledge for the last bolt. I couldn't come up with anything that worked with the crimps. I ended up doing a dyno to the ledge beneath the last bolt, then another big move from there to get to the chains. It was really fun that way, but it felt hard, and I can't help but think that holds have broken! Or maybe I missed something?
Mar 10, 2018
[Hide Comment] Pulled through all of the moves on this thing but didn't send. Great route! Seems like the first left hand crux crimp is bound to pop off at any moment - it has some serious flex.
Oct 21, 2019
[Hide Comment] Entering the crux seems a bit height-dependent. I didn't find it much more difficult than its neighbor. If you send Kum & Go, you should definitely give this a rip.
Sep 2, 2020
[Hide Comment] Pulled off a 5"x24" flake going into the crux today. What was previously a pretty big reach into the ledge at the last bolt for folks below 5'10" is now likely a deadpoint, follow by the same big deadpoint to the top. I'm not sure if it changes the grade, since I didn't climb it prior to the flake breaking off, but if not, then it's still a very stout 12b.
Personally thought this was harder than Ken T'ank and that the grades of them should probably be switched. Super fun line.
Sep 15, 2022
Golden, CO
Colorado
Golden, CO
Ossipee, NH
Durango, CO
Denver, CO
Denver, CO
Denver, CO
Personally thought this was harder than Ken T'ank and that the grades of them should probably be switched. Super fun line. Sep 15, 2022