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Routes in Monument Rock

Mudolomania 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+
South Face, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
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Type: Aid, 90 ft, Grade II
FA: Joe Forrester, 11/23/2010
Page Views: 226 total · 2/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on Nov 23, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Mudolomania begins in an easy, shallow, right-facing dihedral on the South Face of Monument Tower. I am not sure, but the first five to ten feet might be shared with the South Face route. Some easy scrambling leads to progressively harder, loose beaking through a bulge that is up and right from the start. There is a very large loose flake, so tread lightly. The rock in general is very loose, and ledge fall potential abounds. Eventually work up to a ledge where four number one beaks can be used to make a semi-anchor. From here, traverse right along ledges, passing an old mouse nest that a #3 Camalot can be placed in. Make unprotected slab moves to another ledge system. Crawl/walk east along the ledge system until it is possible to make another very committing mantle. From here, walk along the summit ridge to the final mantel. The rock is very loose, the gear is poor, and consequences are serious. This is a fun route but not for the mud/loose rock uninitiated. There is a four drilled-angle anchor directly above the route which was placed to avoid the death angles that are at the top of the South Face route (also makes it easier to clean the route safely). One of the angles is pretty beater and could probably be brought down by any future parties. I didn’t see a summit register up top, so that might be a good addition as well. As far as I know, this was the first ascent up this section of Monument Tower, but if someone has done this before let me know. NO BOLTS/ANGLES were drilled on the F.A. except for the anchor at the top.

Location

Mudolomania climbs directly up the south face of Monument Tower.

Protection

4-#3 beaks (more would be nice), 12-#2 beaks, 8-#1 beaks, 1-#3 Camalot 1-#0.75 Camalot, 1-green Alien and 1-blue/black hybrid Alien. I soloed this, but if you weren't, bring tons of runners because the rope drag would be terrible.

Photos

Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Nice one! Nov 28, 2010

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