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Routes in Wailing Wall

Black Bawl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cinch Up T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easier Than Jackie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Holey Terror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orca the Killer Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rip Off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Roof Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,954 total · 20/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 3, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is on a formation with four climbs on it. Look for an easy slab on the left, a crack on the right, and a steep face in the middle with two side by side sport routes. Rip off is the left of the two sport routes.

Start on the lowest band, and mantle a small ledge. Clip a bolt and continue climbing straight up clipping two more bolts. When you reach the last bolt, make a crux move left then up onto a slabby, unprotected top out with large knobs. Every move on this climb is harder than the move before, as the holds get smaller and smaller, and the rock becomes steeper and steeper. This is true until you reach the slab at the top.

Enjoyable climbing.

Location

On the east facing side of the amphitheater. The base of this climb is located on the lower teir, so you will have to descend the approach gully in the middle of the amphitheater or rappel down Black Bawl to access this climb.

Protection

Four bolts. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Does anyone know what the two sport routes to the right of this are called? There is a second bolt line immediately to the right that follows the crack that is pictured, I would guess ~5.9 and then there is a much harder route further to the right of that with very small holds and 3(?) bolts and no anchor from what I remember. Jul 16, 2018

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