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Routes in Wailing Wall

A Fine Whine S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Bawl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cinch Up T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easier Than Jackie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Holey Terror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lieback and Enjoy It S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orca the Killer Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rip Off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Roof Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
So, So, Security S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

This is the first amphitheater encountered when accessing the Bright Angel Walls from the approach trail. The amphitheater is east facing and offers good morning sun in the fall and spring, while also offering good afternoon shade in the summer. All day shade chasing is possible here in summer as a few high quality sport climbs actually face west. Winter climbing is not out of the question, just make sure all the ice has been melted before trying to scramble down into this crag.

The climbs here are short, mixed sport and traditional. Some of the climbs have bolted anchors while some use trees. There is decent limestone here with cool fossils and sea shells all around.

Getting There

From the shuttle bus stop at the beginning of the Hermit's Rest Road, walk west 200 yards along the South Rim Trail until you reach the first switchback. The switchback cuts left, and a small climbers path cuts off of the pavement to the right. Follow this path 50ft until you reach a large flat piont with a boulder on top of it that overlooks the amphitheater to the west (left).

All of the climbs here are accessed from two ledges. To access the upper ledge, find the small cave and downclimb a few moves (4th). To access the lower ledge, scramble down the gully in the middle of the amphitheater (3rd). You can also rappell directly onto the lower ledge from bolts found on the west side of the large flat point with the boulder on top of it that overlooks the amphitheater. Do this with one rope.

This can be a high profile area because the climbs on the upper ledge topout on the popular South Rim Trail. Expect many questions and to be gawked at by tourists.

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