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Routes in Mousehole Buttress

Mouse Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mousehole T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 140 total, 2/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Nov 1, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Worth doing? to get on the upper face. "Tom" and "Jerry" provide better starts, I think. No stars for this start, unless you are a true mountaineer, but three stars for the finish.

Grovel up the big holds and the crack, crawl through a shrub. On the clean face above the ledge is a gorgeous, thin crack. You can access it from the left across blocks, or from directly below.

Location

In between "East Pillar" and "Mousehole" is a face with a huge ledge halfway up. The lower wall is kinda scrappy, but the upper wall is gorgeous. "Mouse Crack" starts on the left, on big holds to the right of a wide crack.

Protection

One or two ~ 1/4 inch wired nuts for the crux.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Burt points out that the start I describe here isn't actually "Mouse Crack," and he's right, I didn't read the guidebook closely enough. The "guidebook" start is closer to "Tom" and looks poorly protected (to me). Nov 3, 2010