Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Sprax at A2, FFA: Zeb Engberg
Page Views: 2,395 total · 24/month
Shared By: patrick donahue on Oct 22, 2010
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route

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The route is located at the highest part of the wall and has three short sections divided by two big ledges. The first section follows the prominent overhanging crack at the highest part of the wall. The second part continues straight up to the second and last ledge. The final section is the shortest and mainly consists of a long move (read: dyno) up to a small shelf. This move is hard to protect, and the Boston Rocks book indicates that the FFA was done by toproping this section. The last section can be made easy by going diagonally up to the left. FA: Sprax at A2, FFA: Zeb Engberg. Rated 5.12 R in Boston Rocks, 2nd edition. Actually, on the first lead Zeb did not TR the final section but did take the easier left hand finish.


It is the prominent crack at the tallest, overhung section of the wall.


Two glue in bolts for anchor and regular trad rack.


Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
Hey, thanks for posting this up. Just a little correction, there is no way this thing is 75 feet tall. There isn't a single climb at The Quarries that is that high. Ha, sadly that would be a contender for the longest climb in Massachusetts if it were that tall! Oct 25, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
D- you may want to check out Swingles Quarry. Nov 3, 2010
mattyo Yo
Boston, Massachusetts
mattyo Yo   Boston, Massachusetts
As of June 2012, the starting holds (launch holds for the dyno plus an angular crimp to the right) on the last section are pretty loose. Knocking on them rang hollow and they visibly move when you pull on them. I ended up going right instead of attempting the dyno to avoid them. Jun 20, 2012
  5.12 R
  5.12 R
Can someone confirm the big drill hole left of initial 1st crack is on? Didn't try the crack without it. Dec 10, 2014
  5.12- R
twellman   Cambridge
  5.12- R
You can climb it with or without the drill hole, and it is easier if you use it. Whether it is "on" is a matter of personal preference.

There are 2 glue in bolts about 3 feet right of the crack. I am not sure what was going through the head of the person that placed them. The first one needs to be stick clipped (~12 feet up), and the second one can't be clipped until you reach the ledge (~20 feet up), risking groundfall if you fall going for it. And they are out of reach if you are climbing the crack (which has gear anyway). WTF mate? Jun 8, 2015
Colin Shank
Boulder, CO
Colin Shank   Boulder, CO
Also wondering about those small glue in bolts just to the right of the crack. Doesn't seem like a climbable line in itself, and they can't be reached from this climb which accepts great gear anyway.
And to John Strand, Swingles Quarry is now like 20 feet tall at most. Aug 1, 2015
The glue-in bolts to the right are used as directionals for the AMC bucket drop. May 4, 2018