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Routes in I. Railroad Area

Access Granted S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
American Handgunner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astrological Soul Train S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbarians at the Gate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Butcher of Baghdad S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Creeper T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Damn Yankees S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Drifter, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ego Tripping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electrocutioner S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding the Rat T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
IN S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into the Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mother's Day Special S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Name Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Permission Denied S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Procrastination S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Slab Stick Comedy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweeper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vertical Finger Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where's My Bourban S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wild at Heart S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jeff Frizzell
Page Views: 1,199 total, 14/month
Shared By: Max Cody on Oct 20, 2010
Admins: Chris treggE, Dave Hug

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the face behind the large tree in between "Electrocutioner" and "Into the Sun". Great face climbing on great holds. One of the more sustained 10a's at the falls, this one will test your patience if you're at your limit.

"The crux is pretty hard if you don't see it. I happened to see it the first time thus the 10a grade. Jack it and its definately harder. Sweet finish huh?"
-Jeff Frizzell (FA)

Location

The start is located just behind a large tree. Look for the line of bolts up the face between "Electrocutioner" and "Into The Sun".

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Marsh.king
Olney
 
Marsh.king   Olney
 
This climbs more like a 10a/b in my opinion. Great route though. Feb 24, 2016
Eric O'Rear  
 
^ Kate is spot on. You're looking for the bolt line following the very-close-to-the-wall tree. Complete face climb. Sustained 10a. Excellent climbing and very cool hold offerings (patience is a virtue). May 19, 2014
Kate Mittendorf
Nashville, TN
  5.10-
Kate Mittendorf   Nashville, TN
  5.10-
I think this route is mis-described. It is my belief that this route is describing the now-bolted electrocutioner (previously in the guide as TR, I think). At least based on the description that you can use arĂȘte holds and the rope placement in the picture. If you tried to ascend the face it'd be probably 9-9+ as the submitter rated it. I think the route in question is the bolt line left of Into the Sun (starts behind a tree and if you wanted to "stick clip" you could stem the tree). There's no way the route I am thinking of touches the arĂȘte. It's a true face route that is every bit of 10a. Probably one of the more sustained 10as at the falls, IMHO. Nov 15, 2013
Did I screw up the bolt job? It starts left to right and I don't recall The electrocutioner being in play. Perhaps I was too focused on the desired line and denied the proxsimity. A bit of a rating descrepency as well. This doesn't surprise me. The crux is pretty hard if you don't see it. I happened to see it the first time thus the 10a grade. Jack it and its definately harder. Sweet finish huh? Dec 28, 2012
J.Flunker
5.10+
J.Flunker  
5.10+
Rope is on "Electrocutioner" anchors I believe...
"Eletrocutioner" = arete route. 5.8+/5.9. Thurmond route.
"Ego Tripping" = face route to the left of "into the sun". 5.10
2 bolted routes total left of "into the sun". Nov 17, 2010