Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Split creek cracks

Not a Knot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Passive Pro-gression T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Racecar Ya Ya's T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reposado TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rusty Pitons and Mud for Breakfast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tequila Sunset T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
radioactive man TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
springfield TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Jeff Johnson maybe?
Page Views: 76 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jeff J. on Oct 14, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

From the stairs heading to chockstone tower, find a crack with a couple good hand jams leading up to a roof and exiting left to a notch. The crux is just below the blocky roof. I would consider following the crack, then going climbers right till head level with the roof to slot a nut in a verical crack, climbing down a move or two under the roof and then finishing left as this is the cleaner climb. Passive pro makes this a fun trad lead...but feel free to plug some cams. Be careful of bad rock in the roof. For a variation, feel free to climb straight up and over the roof, but you might have to garden a bit to make it better...so please dont garden!

Location

halfway between stairs and chockstone tower. flat face interrupted by a this crack that starts just above a small rock ledge

Protection

Trad is the way to go. Set of nuts, hexes, curved hexes if you have them. Some webbing or chord for tree anchors. bad/dead trees for anchors up top so probably dont tr and weight this all day

Photos

0 Comments