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Routes in Dunce Rock

Mudgumbis A2+
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Type: Aid, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 589 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kevin Landolt on Oct 4, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a cool and casual nailing route that ascends an obvious crack (now that the mud cover has been removed) on the south-face center of Dunce Rock. I'm sure it's been done many times before. Climb over a roof on small cams/angles to gain a right leaning mud-crack. Nail up and right on a big expando-flake. As the crack fizzles out, beak and hook right to gain the east ridge. Enjoy a cold PBR on the "comodious" ledge. Pitch two traverses out right on the N. Face to gain the drilled-angle ladder to the summit.

Bring a lawn-chair for the belay, and maybe even a cooler for the beer?

Location

South Face of Dunce Rock

Protection

Large/medium/small angles - Leeper Zs - a few big peckers - a big hook - and a few cams.

Photos

Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
I actually drilled that angle/bolt ladder on the North Side with JeremyA back in 2007 or so. I think we did the same starting pitch, and agree, a lounge chair con cerveza is pretty neccessary. Nov 9, 2010
k. riemondy
Boulder, Co
k. riemondy   Boulder, Co
I can't wait to redpoint the direct finish up the face. I think it would involve a highstep fr'aid mantel, to another beak seam. mmmm tasty! Oct 7, 2010