Type: | Aid, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,254 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Kevin Landolt on Oct 4, 2010 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a cool and casual nailing route that ascends an obvious crack (now that the mud cover has been removed) on the south-face center of Dunce Rock. I'm sure it's been done many times before. Climb over a roof on small cams/angles to gain a right leaning mud-crack. Nail up and right on a big expando-flake. As the crack fizzles out, beak and hook right to gain the east ridge. Enjoy a cold PBR on the "comodious" ledge. Pitch two traverses out right on the N. Face to gain the drilled-angle ladder to the summit.
Bring a lawn-chair for the belay, and maybe even a cooler for the beer?
Bring a lawn-chair for the belay, and maybe even a cooler for the beer?
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