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Routes in Dunce Rock

Mudgumbis A2+
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 60 ft
FA: FA - Joe Forrester, Jeremy Aslaksen, Olde English, Sparks, Natty Lite, March 2007
Page Views: 2,089 total, 20/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

If this isn't the North Face route described in Desert Rock III, then I don't know what it is. It IS, however, an "obvious route on the north side of the tower" (as stated in the book). And it's easy.

Climb up a short 4th class section to a large ledge. Make a couple easy moves (these can be protected by a cam and/or a sling around a horn if desired) to the first of five drilled fixed/drilled pitons. A few of the pins stick out, but some of them may have tie-off slings on them. Climb C1 to the top.

Location

This route is on the north side (the side that faces away from the parking lot/campsite) of the tower.

Protection

5 draws/slings. One cam (green Camalot?) and a sling for the free climbing.
Indubitably dubious! The 3rd angle blew out on me. Luckily, the one below caught (I don't really know why it didn't blow, too). I put in 2 new bolts right there so now you need 6 draws instead of 5. Dec 31, 2016
Max Supertramp
  Easy 5th C1 PG13
Max Supertramp  
  Easy 5th C1 PG13
Those drilled angles are dubious! Oct 15, 2013
Don't know how long the pitons are, you can only see how far they extend from the rock, but they look scary. Didn't have my drill, or I would have fixed them. They held body weight with a tie off, but I wouldn't want to fall on any of them. The rock around one of the rap bolts has eroded away a half inch or so. There are good placements for 0.4 and #1 Camalots to augment the pitons.

This route could be called "North Face Left." There are couple of new-looking bolts on the right of the north face above a wide crack system, maybe additions to the old north face route??? May 17, 2013
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
 
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
 
After a couple PBR's I went and got on this today with a couple buddies. I ended up freeing it all at 5.10+? Something like that....Had to clean a bit of mud. And the pitons made it interesting as far as not wanting to fall on them. Perhaps the FFA of the tower? I don't know. Either way, the free climbing is quite good on the pitch. Mar 18, 2013
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
another fun little tower. bondo took the sharpie on one. his first aid lead. the pins are going to have to be replaced a some point soon. you can get a good finger size piece just below and left of the first pin and a couple less than good pieces below that. fun stuff Nov 17, 2012
Aaron Child  
 
Wow! thanks for putting this up tristan, this is rad. I thought no one knew this tower even existed. You should put up H.J. Pinnacle and High Roller too...if you can find them :) (if you haven't already, that is) Apr 19, 2009
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
Wow, I never thought anyone would go back and do this one! It is fun though, especially with OE as company. Jer and I did this one back in March 2007, Jer took the first pitch and I did the second. I believe this was what got us interested in using beaks. Mar 22, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
This is a fun, easy tower to tick. And it's not scary at all! There is cryptobiotic soil on the approach, so watch out for that. Mar 17, 2009