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Routes in Dunce Rock
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Jam-a-crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Mudgumbis A2+ |
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Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.72741, -109.30751 |
| FA: | FA - Joe Forrester, Jeremy Aslaksen, Olde English, Sparks, Natty Lite, March 2007 |
| Page Views: | 3,290 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Tristan Higbee on Mar 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
If this isn't the North Face route described in Desert Rock III, then I don't know what it is. It IS, however, an "obvious route on the north side of the tower" (as stated in the book). And it's easy.
Climb up a short 4th class section to a large ledge. Make a couple easy moves (these can be protected by a cam and/or a sling around a horn if desired) to the first of five drilled fixed/drilled pitons. A few of the pins stick out, but some of them may have tie-off slings on them. Climb C1 to the top.
Photos
Videos
Richard Pattison
Maybe a good intro to aid climbing? Probably made us not want to aid climb ev…
Aug 3, 2022
11 Comments