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Routes in White Cliff

Ain't Misbehavin' S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blitz Girls T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow All My Troubles Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cool Colorado Rain S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Czech Cashing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Blonde S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Easy Redhead S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exfoliator, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Funky Gunky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Di T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Overhangutang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Parallel Universe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling in Your Arms S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rufies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wild Geese In the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zebra S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Rob Griz, Brian Pappas, Elias Martos
Page Views: 2,229 total · 25/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Oct 4, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

The Exfoliator follows the massive, inside, overhanging arete on White Cliff. Begin at the steep base of the arete (get the first high bolt by stemming off the slab) and let the pump begin. First crux is between bolts 1 and 2. Follow the overhanging face passing the blunt arete (2nd crux) to the roof. Stem wide, pull the roof, and run it up on easy slab incuts to the chain anchor. Two rests are possible by pulling over the arete on stances. Sustained and super enjoyable, don't let it Exfoliate you!

Due to the proximity of the slab below, if you were to fall in the first half of the route, you will come close to the slab, have an alert belayer! If you are a 2nd, cleaning the route, you could swing down into the slab, again, have an alert belayer. This route is NOT recommended to toprope, you may crater into the slab, guaranteed. As the route name suggests, there is a lot of flakey stuff on the route, much of which I'd like to think I've cleaned. Some remains. The fin of rock between bolts 3-4 is pretty solid, yet still a fin. Climb through this with some care.

Location

Follow the White Cliff trail to the apron, head up left, and it will be the huge, obvious, left-leaning corner/arete.

Protection

10 bolts to a top chain anchor. Well protected.
handyhansen
Vail, CO
 
handyhansen   Vail, CO
 
Is anyone else feeling like stemming at all should be off? My buddy and I didn't use the slab at the bottom for the first bolt or the wall on the left for the last bolt as we thought that was part of the 10b only. Sep 23, 2013
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
I sort of thought this route was a bit contrived. With that said, awesome climbing with route finding being the crux after the second bolt. Aug 7, 2013
Rob Griz
Frisco
 
Rob Griz   Frisco
 
A key block in the final moves below the roof, on the inside corner, is loose. We may try to epoxy the small block in as it is a critical part of the route. Pull on it with ease. Aug 25, 2011