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Routes in White Cliff

Ain't Misbehavin' S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blitz Girls T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blow All My Troubles Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cool Colorado Rain S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Czech Cashing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Blonde S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Easy Redhead S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exfoliator, The T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Funky Gunky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Monkey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Di T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Overhangutang S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parallel Universe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling in Your Arms S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rufies S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Water Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wild Geese In the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zebra S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Description

White Cliff is a small, southeast-facing crag that receives sun most of the day until about 2-3 hours before sunset. It is mixed in among other slabs along the north side of I-70. It has quality slab/face/roof climbing on a fine mix of gneiss with cool hornblende dikes. There are excellent holds, and depending on the route, few features for gear. The rock continues to exfoliate, mainly little chips but be aware of larger blocks and their stability. Sport and trad routes exist side-by-side. It is great for a quick set of laps after work and close to other areas including Mt. Royal and the Diamond Wall in Officer's Gulch. The White Cliffs have been climbed long before I got here, a story told by the first High Country Crags guidebook and the old Star drive bolts that once dotted the face. The area has seen a resurgence of interest and a handful of exciting new lines worth a lap. Enjoy the modern gear and the fun they afford. A big thanks to Brian Pappas and Elias Martos for their help and support.

Getting There

From the Frisco #201 exit, drive west for approximately 1 mile on I-70, passing a pair of yellow "Left Curve" road signs. When the shoulder opens up and sloping grass area appears, pull off down along the aspens. You will find a tall cairn and beautiful handmade sign marking the steep approach trail that dips through the trees and heads up to the apron of White Cliff. Follow the trail left to reach the West wall routes, right to reach the East Wall. The approach time is ~5-10 minutes.

L->R:

West Wall:

A? Left Line, 5, 1p, TR.
B. Ain't Misbehavin', 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Hard Monkey, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.
D. Parallel Universe, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.
E. Water Groove, 7 R, 1p, 100', gear.
F. Little Di, 7+ PG-13, 1p, 110', gear. 2 starts.
G. Czech Cashing, 11+, 1p, 100', bolts.
H. Funky Gunky, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.
I. Big Dihedral, 7, 1p, 100', gear.
J. Overhangutang, 10, 1p, 75', bolts.
K. The Exfoliator, 11- PG-13, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.

5th class toe/apron

East Wall:

L1. Rufies, 8-, 1p, 105', bolts.
L2. Blitz Girls, 8, 1p, 105', bolts & gear.
M. Zebra, 7+, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Easy Redhead, 6, 1p, 55', bolts.
O. Dirty Blonde, 8-, 2p, 140', bolts.
P. 6, 1p, 55', TR.
Q. Wild Geese In the West, 9, 1p, bolts.
R Blow All My Troubles Away, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
S. Cool Colorado Rain, 6, 1p, 60', bolts.
T. Rolling in Your Arms , 6, 1p, 45', bolts.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at White Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 34
Easy Redhead
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 17
Water Groove
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Blow All My Troubles Away
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 17
Little Di
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 23
Rufies
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 43
Dirty Blonde
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Blitz Girls
Trad, Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
Zebra
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
Ain't Misbehavin'
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Parallel Universe
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Funky Gunky
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Wild Geese In the West
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 22
Overhangutang
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
The Exfoliator
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Czech Cashing
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easy Redhead
 34
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Water Groove
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Blow All My Troubles Away
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Little Di
 17
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Rufies
 23
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Dirty Blonde
 43
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Blitz Girls
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Zebra
 44
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Ain't Misbehavin'
 36
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Parallel Universe
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Funky Gunky
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wild Geese In the West
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Overhangutang
 22
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Exfoliator
 6
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Czech Cashing
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in White Cliff »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Brian Pappas
silverthorne CO
Brian Pappas   silverthorne CO
Great climbs, Rob. Thanks for all the hard work putting up these routes. Oct 2, 2010
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
Sweet crag. Quality rock, routes, and excellent work by Griz. Jun 14, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
This is a terrific diamond in the rough. It has very rock which varies from rock reminiscent of Tuolomne, to the Gunks, Red Slab of Clear Creek Canyon, to Combat Rock granite. There is a good deal of variety in a small area from slab to overhangs. Likely due to its location, it is subject to exfoliation as you might suspect. It is definitely worth a stop if you are in the area. Thanks, Rob! Jun 14, 2011
Will Sharp
Breck, CO
Will Sharp   Breck, CO
White Cliff is a great place here in Summit County. Great variety of sport lines. Thank you to Rob and Brian for all your work in putting these up! The black and white drawing that Rob has posted is amazingly accurate and easy to follow. Happy Climbing! Jul 8, 2011
Rob Griz
Frisco
Rob Griz   Frisco
Huge thanks to Brian for his handbuilt "Stairway to Heaven". Forget about buying a Stairmaster to workout, just take a stroll up White Cliff. Thanks to Will, Dave and Leo for the great comments, I think we have a pretty classy crag on our hands. Climb on! Aug 30, 2011
I don't know what you do for a living, Rob, but you draw up some of the most beautiful and informative topos I have ever seen. This is a work of art, that's what this is! Do more...I can't wait! Sep 22, 2011
B Soderberg
Dillon, CO
B Soderberg   Dillon, CO
I don't think any of the routes are actually close to 100'. We did most of the routes this weekend, and a 60m rope was fine for everything on the west wall. Jul 28, 2012
Rob Griz
Frisco
Rob Griz   Frisco
When doing 'most' of the routes, a 60 m rope 'may' be fine. If doing ALL the routes, a 70m is helpful. Many climbing accidents happen when a climber drops a leader on the lower due to a short rope. Seems like we've already had an accident at the crag, hate to see another. Coming from the guy that bolted all the routes, you will definitely need a 70m for the East wall, the "other half" of the climbing at White Cliff. Cheers! Aug 6, 2012
Matt W.
Edmond, OK
Matt W.   Edmond, OK
Are there chain top anchors on all routes at White Cliff? Aug 28, 2013
Rob Griz
Frisco
Rob Griz   Frisco
James, thanks a bunch for your compliment. I'm a hack-artist in my spare time. Cheers to you for opening up Royal! Nov 29, 2016
S2k 4life
Baltimore
S2k 4life   Baltimore
Hey, I lost a green La Sportiva shoe here, pretty positive on the trail somewhere. If you find it, please contact 4439008741. Jul 31, 2017
Left two double length slings, one green 1/2" webbing and one Petzl alpine, on an aspen at the base of Parallel Universe. Good karma and beer for returning them. 9703334369. Sep 25, 2017
Left a pair of La Sportive Katana lace up at the base of the west wall. If you happen to have them, please contact me, 9702758036. Oct 5, 2017

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