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Early Access
Routes in Upper Burner Wall
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Hopscotch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.5727, -111.777 |
| FA: | Dirk Tyler 1980 |
| Page Views: | 818 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Oct 2, 2010 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route was originally done in two pitches, doing it in a single pitch seems to make the most sense.
Climb up the easy groove to some interesting blocks in the middle of the face. From the blocks, climb the obvious left leaning crack across the face and around the corner to a gear belay on top of the cliff. The left leaning crack is very similar to the upper portion of Mexican Crack. It is basically a Mexican crack which feels like 5.11-. The rock is a bit gritty, but the line is classic and seems like it would clean up reasonably with more ascents.
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