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Routes in Upper Burner Wall

Hopscotch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dirk Tyler 1980
Page Views: 73 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 2, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route was originally done in two pitches, doing it in a single pitch seems to make the most sense.
Climb up the easy groove to some interesting blocks in the middle of the face. From the blocks, climb the obvious left leaning crack across the face and around the corner to a gear belay on top of the cliff. The left leaning crack is very similar to the upper portion of Mexican Crack. It is basically a Mexican crack which feels like 5.11-. The rock is a bit gritty, but the line is classic and seems like it would clean up reasonably with more ascents.

Location

Starts at the base of a large groove system on the South face. The upper portion of the route climbs an obvious left leaning crack in the middle of the South facing part of the wall.

Protection

Bring a set of nuts and a set of cams.

Photos

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