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Routes in Upper Burner Wall

Hopscotch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Carruthers and Pat Maloney, 1982, FFA, Tom and Steve Carruthers, 1982
Page Views: 67 total, 1/month
Shared By: Arie on Feb 24, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Taken in halves, this is a disjointed little climb that would (as usual) be great if it got a bit more traffic. Unfortunately a large spat of scrub oak in the middle of climb seriously detracts from its quality. I found myself wishing I was sipping scotch rather than playing this game of hopscotch.

Climb a quality but gritty corner (lieback and hands) for about thirty feet before traversing along a short sidewalk to the offending scrub oak. Tunnel your way upward, reaching the crouton-laden crux above. Unfortunately, at this point you are out of sight of your belayer, so muster your courage and fire away. Fun lie-backing awaits, but so does a whipper into the trees if you blow it. Belay at the intersection of Statis by looping some eroding hoodoos. Walk off west.

Location

At about the same level as the top of the lower Burner Buttress but about 50 meters east. It is slightly up and west from the base of Stasis, starting in an obvious small dihedral. Walk off west.

Protection

Standard LCC rack, with perhaps two #2 and #3 C2's, although you could get by with less.

Photos

A proud No-Star send!!! Strong work, S Feb 27, 2011
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
 
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
 
Thanks- those blasted croutons dispatched me directly into the scrub oak salad below on my first go. My second go felt more like roller skating than climbing... Feb 26, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Great write up, "crouton-laden crux" had me rolling... Feb 24, 2011