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Routes in Nestle Wall

Chock full o' nuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Morsel Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nescafe' T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 9/29/10 Todd Paris, Mike Prince
Page Views: 78 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tparis on Sep 29, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Both this route and "chock full o' nuts" can be climbed as one long route with a 70m rope or broken up into 2 pitches.

Location

starts right at the base of the boulder in the description in the guide book. P1 5.5PG (5.4R) Up the obvious crack onto the right rising ramp. Climb up right, then into a shallow v corner and up to a flaring crack, step up and right to a small ledge to find some pro before the run out slab. Step back left and up past a sill and a couple of nice pockets. P2 5.6 G Climb the hand crack up and then step left onto the steep slab with a dirty crack in the corner climb this to its top (beware of the loose block) wander up over a series of smaller walls and ledges to the top.

Rap off the tree anchor at the top. 70m rope is required to reach the midway rap anchors! From the mid anchors a 60m rope just reaches the ground.

Protection

Full rack of cams Doubles helpful up to 2". Pink tri-cam also useful.

Photos

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Jim Lawyer    
 
I thought this was a surprisingly good route for the grade. Not sure about the "double cams", as I don't think there's enough places to put them. From the top, you can make a short rap to the anchors on Sheik of the Burning Sands (the winter route), then a 30m rap to the ground. Walking around the right end is quite long, slabby, and unpleasant. Aug 12, 2013
Tparis
Pottersville,New York
 
Tparis   Pottersville,New York
 
it is a tree(hemlock) anchor, cord and two carabiners. midpoint you need to build a gear anchor or traverse climbers left to a hemlock tree with webbing and rings. Aug 12, 2013
aghetie
  5.5 R
aghetie  
  5.5 R
Could not find the anchors on this route (8/10/13), either midpoint or at the top. Have they been removed?
Aug 11, 2013