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Routes in Breakers

Armed Response T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Destination' Planet Claire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frightline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Medusa , The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wonga, Wonga, Wonga T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 175 ft
FA: Jim Brink, P. McGrane, 1988
Page Views: 624 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kevin Landolt on Sep 26, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Medusa is a bold and aesthetic line line up the beautiful slab on the eastern end of the Breakers. The route is immediately left of an obvious roof-crack called Fisticuffs (10c). Props to J. Brink and P. McGrane, this route is a gem and a proud send.

Bouldery moves over an initial bulge gain the first bolt (an old rusty hunk of metal). Enjoy excellent climbing up quartzite, passing two more bolts. The crux comes shortly after the third bolt and involves thin friction moves to gain a sloping horizontal crack. Mantel onto the face above and choose your poison - the obvious line leading directly up on thin holds left of the watermark (possible death or serious injury inducing fall potential here on sold 5.9+ terrain) or make some thin face moves out right (like I did) to gain the slightly easier, though still very runout slab that hugs the right side of the watermark.Protection presents itself in horizontal cracks above. Cruise up the rest of the slab on easier terrain - but don't fall.

Rap to the ground from a tree-anchor above - 2 ropes required.

Location

Quartzite groove at the far NE end of the Breakers.

Protection

Draws, balls, and TCUs.

Photos

Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Go do this route! Oct 13, 2010