Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Breakers

Armed Response T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Destination' Planet Claire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frightline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Medusa , The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wonga, Wonga, Wonga T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: P McGrane, Clover
Page Views: 950 total, 11/month
Shared By: Kevin Landolt on Sep 6, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Go climb this route. Possibly the best 5.10 trad line at Greyrock! Instead of the usual thin-face moves and slab-slithering, this route involves sustained lie-backing, face climbing, and jamming! I also thought this route was really solid (hard) for the grade.

Start up easy ground to gain a thin, finger crack, lieback up to the obvious bulge, work your way left to gain the left-leaning dihedral roof, and follow this to the break midway through (Frightline Roof - 11a - takes the first crack through the roof, and Frightline Direct - 11 -continues through the seem near the end of the dihedral). This shallow crack is the crux and is currenty filled with dirt and vegitation, but good fist/hand jams are still to be had! Crank over the roof and continue up more classy (though more moderate) 5.8 ground above to reach a tree-sling anchor.

Rap to the ground with 2 sixy meter ropes or walk off to the left. Well done.

Location

This route is accurately depicted and described in the NC3 Poudre Canyon guide.

Protection

Standard Greyrock Trad Rack. Lots of runners to reduce rope-drag.

Photos

0 Comments