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Routes in The "Lost" Boulder

Bald Headed Freak V1 5
Drive By V3 6A
Drive By, Right Finish V3+ 6A+
Fallout (Notochord Sit) V9 7C
Finders Keepers V9 7C
Ground Zero V10 7C+
Notochord V6+ 7A
Summit or Die V4 6B
Ty's Route V11-12 8A+
Type: Boulder
FA: Mike Galoob
Page Views: 2,379 total · 26/month
Shared By: Dana Seaton on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Description

Sit start, with hands on the lowest rail under the cave. Climb up on perfect stone using flakes to pop out to the sloping pinch out right, then dyno for a good edge and top out.

Location

Under the steepest part of the boulder.

Protection

Bouldering

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Has anybody done the left hand top out; instead of using the far right pinch, going up and left on flakes to finish 4 ft to the left (not all the way over to Ty's route)? It looks like it would be a very good variation, and only very slightly contrived. I would guess it is 10+ from the low start. Nov 27, 2012
MaxMonn
Providence, RI
  V10
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
  V10
Mark, do you mean instead of going left to the vertical crimp and right to the sloper on the arete to go right gaston to the vertical crimp and pull left up to the crimp at the top of the face-center (eliminating the right arete entirely)?

I tried pulling on this the other day and it feels really hard. your feet aren't set up for pulling right up to the vertical crimp and it feels really hard to lock off on the low rail.

ETA: Also, I was looking at an extension in which you would match the right arete and move into the right face to a high right-sloping pinch and a crimp in the middle of the face before firing for the top. Mar 20, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
"...go right gaston to the vertical crimp and pull left up to the crimp at the top of the face-center (eliminating the right arete entirely)?"
Yeah, that was what I was thinking. Maybe add a few more +s to the 10+ :)

I wish I could have seen what Ty did. From Dana's description, I can't see what he held on to. If he indeed went the way it sounds, I would think he could have done the super project on the tall rounded arete left of Finders Keepers. I swear that thing will go sometime. It just looks about V15 or something. Mar 20, 2013
MaxMonn
Providence, RI
  V10
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
  V10
Ya, Giossi and I scoped out both Ty's thing and the super project ( on the finders keepers arete). it took us a WHILE to find the holds on ty's thing. its basically a crappy friction patch (I wouldn't quite call it a cookie unless referring to its texture). I think Giossi pulled on but thought it was hard as hell.

The thing in the middle of the face would be HARD. I think probably harder than "10+" maybe by like a grade or two. the trick would be locking off on the slopey one pad rail above the start rail in order to gaston the crimp. I definitely want to go back and sus out the moves. i think with a crazy heel hook it could actually be doable (until now i've always used a toe on the start rail). Mar 21, 2013

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