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Routes in Specter Wall

Apparition S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Casper the Friendly Ghost T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Specter S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Clay Watson, Brian Smoot, Mike Perkins
Page Views: 3,162 total, 36/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Sep 4, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a nice line. A steep crux, a vertical crux, an off-vertical crux. Some of the best, most crisp crimps I've laid hands on.

AKA: Black Power

Location

Look for the black chain/bolt anchor below the black streak. You won't be able to see the climber on the upper crux from here so we added a two bolt belay off to the left on a good ledge. If you go over there, please watch your rope carefully as you lower and clean (especially the bottom bolt).
Alternatively, we added a belay 25 feet left on a ledge that allows you to see the climber for the whole climb. I haven't belayed this climb from over there but its just an option.

Protection

10 or 12 bolts to a bolted belay. Bring a couple of long runners for the middle and start. 70M rope to descend.

Photos

Derek West Newman
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Derek West Newman   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Hardest 5.11 I've ever done, but I think the grade should stay the same. Aug 6, 2015
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.11c/d
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.11c/d
Mad qual brah! Jul 14, 2015
Arthur
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c/d
Arthur   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c/d
Managed to onsite this the other night. I'd say 11c/d for me but I think if you get pumped on steep climbing or don't read that exit sequence correctly it'd feel quite a bit harder. But all in all this was amazing in every way, position, appearance, flow, and thus I present it with my personal rating of QualDog ++ aka QD++. Jul 13, 2015
Andy Jacobsen
  5.11d
Andy Jacobsen  
  5.11d
Sooooooooo good. One of my all-time lcc favorites. Mar 3, 2014
Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
  5.11d
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
  5.11d
Fantastic route!! Keeps coming at you! Loved the micro crimp face up high! Seemed to me that the steep crux and vertical crux are one right after the other. The upper crux is really tricky to figure out, but not quite .12 in my opinion. All in all, this route is definitely full on and CLASSIC! Nice work gents! Jun 17, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12-
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12-
Very nice route. Nothing to complain about other than a few strangely-placed bolts and the mega-sandbag rating on this site. Also, don't climb this with anything shorter than a 70m. Sep 3, 2012
grk10vq    
I heard the British climb with rockets in their pants?

-Fight Grade Creep- Aug 29, 2012
John Steiger
  5.12a
John Steiger  
  5.12a
It might have something to do with Ten’s NBA-small-forward height, but sandbagging does seem to be popular among some of the current crop of LCC first ascensionists (cough, Andy Ross, cough). Aug 28, 2012
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.11c/d
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.11c/d
  • mental note* - tenesmus is a sandbagger...
Aug 28, 2012
tenesmus  
 
As this route has gotten more traffic the feedback is that its probably, "Really friendly 5.12" so I guess it should be graded .12a. Psyched people are coming up here.

(*edited to say I'm stoked the consensus stayed in the .11 range. And lol, I'm not a sand-bagger -
you guys just don't climb this style very often.) Aug 27, 2012
John Steiger
  5.12a
John Steiger  
  5.12a
One of the very best pitches I’ve done in Utah (at least those I remember). It has it all, great rock, super position, superlative setting, well-bolted, and really tricky cruxes that keep coming. I could see this being 11d if one were well-tuned on steep slab, but I’m not, so… Uh, Ten -- 5.11c, really? Aug 15, 2012
vacano
  5.12a
vacano  
  5.12a
Full on "porn star" route! (per Ten Sleep guide scale) Sep 26, 2011
bheller
SL UT
  5.12-
bheller   SL UT
  5.12-
Jules: Mmm-mmmm. That is a tasty burger. Vincent, ever have a Big Kahuna Burger?
[Vincent shakes his head]
Jules: Wanna bite? They're real tasty.
Vincent: Ain't hungry.
Jules: Well, if you like burgers give 'em a try sometime. I can't usually get 'em myself because my girlfriend's a vegitarian which pretty much makes me a vegitarian. But I do love the taste of a good burger. Mm-mm-mm. You know what they call a Quarter Pounder with cheese in France?
Brett: No.
Jules: Tell 'em, Vincent.
Vincent: A Royale with cheese.
Jules: A Royale with cheese! You know why they call it that?
Brett: Because of the metric system?
Jules: Check out the big brain on Brett! You're a smart motherfucker. That's right. The metric system. Sep 5, 2010
bheller
SL UT
  5.12-
bheller   SL UT
  5.12-
Jules: Describe what Marsellus Wallace looks like!
Brett: What?
Jules: Say 'what' again. Say 'what' again, I dare you, I double dare you motherfucker, say what one more Goddamn time! Sep 5, 2010
tenesmus  
 

Its Specter. Sep 5, 2010
bheller
SL UT
  5.12-
bheller   SL UT
  5.12-
Its Black Power...its rad...and its no handbag! Sep 4, 2010