Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,551 total · 15/month
Shared By: jim-c on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Description

Fun climb up the face and then around to the left of The Prow. Some crack to work and a nice corner. Crux is the final move across the prow. It's right off the path to the top of Sugarloaf (about 40 feet) so you get a lot of watchers. Be careful how you setup your anchors, other climbers have mentioned biners on anchor ropes disappearing into the hands of hikers/schoolkids. You are right next to the Cub Scout cracks which are great for beginners or to learn place gear.

Location

Sugarloaf Mountain. Go up the green trail to the end of the rock stairs. You will see the prow jutting out. Easy walk to the top of the crag to drop a toprope. Plenty of room at the bottom for belaying.

Protection

Toprope. Good anchor trees up at the top. Drop over the left side.

Photos

Mark Maier
  5.7 PG13
Mark Maier  
  5.7 PG13
There are some solid placements on the upper part of the route, but where they are makes it definitely possible that you'd swing into the arete or the rocks in the gully to the left if you fell. Apr 7, 2013
A number .5 and #3 cam would protect the area to the overhang. There's an old piton by the overhang, but i wouldn't trust it. May 31, 2016