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Routes in 6. Endless Wall

Dihedral Crack aka Red Dihedral T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Go Down Gambling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maze, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Foot In The Grave S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Printer Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Room Service S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Transformation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wild Flower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Josh Gross, Taylor Woodward, and Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 2,523 total · 27/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Transformation is a four pitch tour to the top of Monitor with excellent stone and engaging movement.

Pitch 1, 11+, 60 feet, 7 bolts. Thoughtful edging takes you up to an overhanging, crux section. Powerful, bouldery moves take you to a jug and a nice pull over a small roof. There are two bolts with chain/links at the anchor.

Alternative start to pitch 1, 10c. Begin on "Go Down Gambling", traversing into "Transformation" for its final 10 feet to the pitch 1 anchor.

Pitch 2, 10c, 100 feet, 10 bolts. Excellent face climbing leads up right to a steep, left-facing corner. Climb past this to a small ledge, traverse right and move up a shallow corner past two bolts to a chain anchor.

Pitch 3, 10b, 140 feet, 17 bolts. There is great movement throughout this long pitch, consistent and engaging It has a chain anchor at a nice ledge.

Pitch 4, 10a, 150 feet, 13 bolts. Continued excellent incuts and sidepulls lead upward to some sweet underclinging, to laybacking, to pulling over a small roof action. After the roof, continue past a couple more bolts finally belaying from a tree near the summit. I highly recommend extending your anchor down from the tree to belay up your partner.

Walk off to the east.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start just left of Go Down Gambling.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts, bolts, and more bolts. Bring 17 draws and shoes to walk off with. There are fixed anchors atop pitches 1, 2, and 3.

Photos

Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
Way to get'r done, you guys! And way to stretch those pitches out! I look forward to climbing this new line.... I've now put up 5 new multi-pitch routes to the left of "Slings and Arrows".... Check 'em out.... Aug 4, 2013
nate post
Silverthorne
  5.11+
nate post   Silverthorne
  5.11+
Just climbed the first pitch. I had no idea what it was when I lead it. I thought it was going to be easier than it was, and when I got to the crux, I just did not have my game face on and blew the onsight. Still a little bit chossy up top in spots. Yet another climb worth doing on Monitor Rock. I will be back to do all the pitches in the near future. Jun 7, 2014
Really good route. Did the Go Down Gambling start. 4 thoughtful, fun pitches to the top of Monitor. Consistently cruxy moves on the first 2 pitches then fun movement on better holds the last 2 pitches. Cranking through the roof on the last pitch on huge holds is a great finish. Jun 8, 2015
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Awesome route. There may actually be 17 bolts on the 3rd pitch, that or we miscounted our draws or something. So, carrying an extra draw or two is never a bad idea. After topping out, we rapped Dazed and Confused with a single 80m and just barely made it (comment on that route page). Jul 25, 2015
nicolas blair
Denver, CO
 
nicolas blair   Denver, CO
 
Bring 2 ropes, unless you plan on walking off (which is way less fun than rappelling). Once I topped out, I rappelled from a medium-sized tree at the summit down to pitch 4 ledge. 2-rope rappel to pitch 3 ledge. 2-rope rappel to the ground.

The best part of this climb is how sustained it is the whole way through. There are not a lot of rest spots, the roof on pitch 4 is properly exposed (but well bolted), and pitch 2 is an absolute beauty. Sep 19, 2016
Amos Whiting
Basalt, Colorado
 
Amos Whiting   Basalt, Colorado
 
Excellent route on perfect rock! We linked P1 and 2 together and did it in three pitches after starting with "Melt Down". So great to be doing these long Monitor routes with just a set of draws and or a single set.

The first pitch is a bit out of character with the rest of the route, but it was short and well-bolted.

Nice work, boys. Sep 27, 2016

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