Type: Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches
FA: Josh Gross, Taylor Woodward, and Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 4,471 total · 36/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Transformation is a four pitch tour to the top of Monitor with excellent stone and engaging movement.

Pitch 1, 11+, 60 feet, 7 bolts. Thoughtful edging takes you up to an overhanging, crux section. Powerful, bouldery moves take you to a jug and a nice pull over a small roof. There are two bolts with chain/links at the anchor.

Alternative start to pitch 1, 10c. Begin on "Go Down Gambling", traversing into "Transformation" for its final 10 feet to the pitch 1 anchor.

It is highly recommended to link either start with pitch 2, this provides 160 feet of fun climbing and a nice stance atop pitch 2.

Pitch 2, 10c, 100 feet, 10 bolts. Excellent face climbing leads up right to a steep, left-facing corner. Climb past this to a small ledge, traverse right and move up a shallow corner past two bolts to a chain anchor.

Pitch 3, 10b, 140 feet, 17 bolts. There is great movement throughout this long pitch, consistent and engaging It has a chain anchor at a nice ledge.

Pitch 4, 10a, 150 feet, 13 bolts. Continued excellent incuts and sidepulls lead upward to some sweet underclinging, to laybacking, to pulling over a small roof action. After the roof, continue past a couple more bolts finally belaying from a tree near the summit. I highly recommend extending your anchor down from the tree to belay up your partner.

Walk off to the north and then down the gully/talus on west side of monitor.

Location

Start just left of Go Down Gambling.

Protection

Bolts, bolts, and more bolts. Bring 17 draws and shoes to walk off with. There are fixed anchors atop pitches 1, 2, and 3.

Photos