Type: Sport, 470 ft (142 m), 4 pitches
FA: Josh, Mado, Luke and Lynn
Page Views: 897 total · 7/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Jun 8, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Great news, we have expanded our Room Service options for your climbing pleasure.  Formerly this “Motel 6 esque” single pitch line has now become a multipitch line at least on par with a Marriott.  

Two new pitches were added this summer that take you to the anchor before the final pitch of Transformation.  Finish on Transformation and you will want to come back for a return send.

Pitch 1 60’ 5.10b  Slab your way up to the anchor chain but put a draw on this and then climb easily up left to a 3 bolt anchor atop Wildflower. This is a comfy stance to belay from for the upcoming crux pitch.

Pitch 2, 120’ 5.11c  This is the best pitch on the route.  Boulder up past a few bolts and move into some fun chunky 5.10 climbing and find yourself perched just right of a small roof.  Move up and then balance left onto the upper lip of the roof, really a fun sequence.  

From this point until the finishing ramp, the pitch is sustained and very fun.  Rests are there and the movement is superb.  Once you hit the lower angle ramp move up right past a final bolt to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 120’ 5.10b  More fun climbing at a lower grade.  Follow the line of bolts straight above you.  You will pass over an overlap and then move into a “steeper” short left leaning corner.  Big hand holds make up for some small feet initially.

Continue upward to a point where the bolts appear to end, fear not, you simply step up and left to connect into the final 3 bolts of Transformation.  Belay at this nice stance with a 2 bolt anchor.  You are now ready to finish the final fun pitch of Transformation.

Pitch 4, 10a, 150 feet  Continued excellent incuts and sidepulls lead upward to some undercling moves, to laybacking, to pulling over a small roof section. After the roof, continue past a couple more bolts finally belaying from a tree near the summit. I highly recommend extending your anchor down from the tree to belay up your partner.  Communication in the typical wind is challenging.

Walk off to the north and then down the gully/talus on west side of monitor.

Location

This is located between Printer Boy and Wild Flower. Start just left of a small pine growing out of the rock.

Protection

Bring a combination of 18 draws/runners.  Chain or links at each belay anchor.

Photos