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Routes in p. Obnoxious Partner

Dead Tree T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Obnoxious Partner Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Chimney T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,424 total, 27/month
Shared By: TylerGates on Aug 12, 2010
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

Apparently a classic for the area. Follows the obvious overhanging fist crack to a pod. Then an airy step and up to the top.

Location

The next face to the left of Phone Booth. When you're looking at the face, it's the super obvious fist crack through a bulge about 15 feet off the ground.(photo coming soon)

Protection

I haven't lead it yet, but TR'ed and surveyed. Looked like it could be done with a lot of fist sized pieces and maybe a #5 and a #6 camalot.
Anchors consist of two pretty healthy trees at the top of the climb, and two rap bolts about 10 feet from the top. Bring long webbing or static cord as usual around these parts.

Photos

LB Edwards
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8+
LB Edwards   Brooklyn, NY
  5.8+
Funny how all the photos are right at the crux and not the next move.

I will get this climb.... Nov 10, 2017
Cody Goldberg
Lakewood, Colorado
  5.9+
Cody Goldberg   Lakewood, Colorado
  5.9+
5.8 my ass. crux is solid 10+, fun thing to be humbled by,. Jun 1, 2016
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Hey Tyler, good point! I'm just getting comfy leading 5.7 and 5.8 fist cracks here on west coast granite. I'd love to go back to Obnoxious Partner and give it another whirl. Sep 4, 2012
gio92
Bend, OR
 
gio92   Bend, OR
 
You should definitely struggle through it if you're in the area. Sep 4, 2012
TylerGates
Olympia, WA
 
TylerGates   Olympia, WA
 
Since climbing this route, I've gotten on a few more 5.8+ fist cracks in old school rated areas and they all seem inline. Its very frustrating! Apparently those guys used to know their way around a fist crack better than us. On a side note, I'm psyched to see people using this page and climbing out at High Rocks! I couldn't believe that this awesome route wasn't already posted on this site. May 23, 2012
yeah man total sandbag at 5.8.. must be at least super hard 5.8++++++++++++++++++ Feb 8, 2012
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
agree this is a sandbag at 5.8 and I have a fair amount of crack climbing experience from my days living out West. I have led it but these days, I'm less inclined to place gear on Stover's slick, friable rock. I generally take the view that Stover is a sport climbing and TR crag and limit gear to setting TRs where there are no chains. Aug 19, 2011
The guide book says 5.8+ but I've had more trouble on 10a climbs. Sep 21, 2010