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Obnoxious Partner Crack

5.8+, Trad, TR, 45 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 19 votes
FA: unknown
Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lo… > Ralph Stover SP… > p. Obnoxious Partner

Description

Apparently a classic for the area. Follows the obvious overhanging fist crack to a pod. Then an airy step and up to the top.

Location

The next face to the left of Phone Booth. When you're looking at the face, it's the super obvious fist crack through a bulge about 15 feet off the ground.(photo coming soon)

Protection

I sewed the thing up with as I remember a .5, .4, .75,  #1, 2 #2s and 2 #3s. Could get by on way less. Tons of good cam placements.

Anchors consist of two pretty healthy trees at the top of the climb, and two rap bolts about 10 feet from the top. Bring long webbing or static cord as usual around these parts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Compilation photo of Obnoxious Partner (purple), Dead Tree (blue), and Old Chimney (Yellow) Area.
[Hide Photo] Compilation photo of Obnoxious Partner (purple), Dead Tree (blue), and Old Chimney (Yellow) Area.
Dan halfway through the fist crack.
[Hide Photo] Dan halfway through the fist crack.
The beginning of the 2-3 crux moves, tape for fist jamming is advisable
[Hide Photo] The beginning of the 2-3 crux moves, tape for fist jamming is advisable

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The guide book says 5.8+ but I've had more trouble on 10a climbs. Sep 21, 2010
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
[Hide Comment] agree this is a sandbag at 5.8 and I have a fair amount of crack climbing experience from my days living out West. I have led it but these days, I'm less inclined to place gear on Stover's slick, friable rock. I generally take the view that Stover is a sport climbing and TR crag and limit gear to setting TRs where there are no chains. Aug 19, 2011
[Hide Comment] yeah man total sandbag at 5.8.. must be at least super hard 5.8++++++++++++++++++ Feb 8, 2012
TylerGates
Olympia, WA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Since climbing this route, I've gotten on a few more 5.8+ fist cracks in old school rated areas and they all seem inline. Its very frustrating! Apparently those guys used to know their way around a fist crack better than us. On a side note, I'm psyched to see people using this page and climbing out at High Rocks! I couldn't believe that this awesome route wasn't already posted on this site. May 23, 2012
gio92
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] You should definitely struggle through it if you're in the area. Sep 4, 2012
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Hey Tyler, good point! I'm just getting comfy leading 5.7 and 5.8 fist cracks here on west coast granite. I'd love to go back to Obnoxious Partner and give it another whirl. Sep 4, 2012
Cody Goldberg
Lakewood, Colorado
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] 5.8 my ass. crux is solid 10+, fun thing to be humbled by,. Jun 1, 2016
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Funny how all the photos are right at the crux and not the next move.

I will get this climb.... Nov 10, 2017
Nathan Regouski
Landenberg
 
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. Count not get past the crack, but managed to swing a leg over the right side and push up to move on. Jun 6, 2019
Joel Kushlan
Philadelphia, PA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] First: IMO this is not a sandbag at 5.8. I think it's just people unfamiliar with crack techniques.

Second gear comments: The posted beta is way off (no need for a #4 or #5) I tried to change it, but don't know if it will be approved. This climbs easy with a standard rack, maybe doubles of BD #2 and BD #3. I didn't see any use for anything bigger.

Third: There is what looks like is an easily climbable crack to the left of this. Small pieces up a corner, then what looks like a 4 and a 5 narrowing to a hands crack and a traverse out left. I didn't climb it and will add it when I do but wanted to check first if anyone had any info on it. Jun 19, 2019