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Routes in S-Curve - New Cliche

New Cliche S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass, Eric Stroud (1988)
Page Views: 2,017 total, 23/month
Shared By: C H on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Fun climbing. Big moves leading to thin holds up top.

Location

Steep RIGHT line on New Cliche Wall.

Protection

5 bolts, chains.

Photos

Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
  5.12c/d
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
  5.12c/d
Short but full value! Pretty sure DTM either is crushing .13's or didn't do this climb, cause it ain't 12-. Juggy .11 climbing leads to a V5 dyno off a sidepull crimp to a good edge over the roof. Flat slappers with no feet will get you to the top. Preplaced long draw on last bolt aids clipping it. Pretty fun route. Currently good fixed draw on crux bolt. May 6, 2014
zenetopia
  5.12+
zenetopia  
  5.12+
This is a superb line. Have not got the redpoint on it yet (tore my miniscus hoping over the lip after the long reach)... but concerning the last clip, i too, thought it was pretty difficult... i think it would be way easier (and safe) to skip the last bolt... If you blow it, and you have a good belay, you will take a ride, but will hit nothing but space... Aug 22, 2013
bheller
SL UT
  5.12c/d
bheller   SL UT
  5.12c/d
Not sure how you could describe this as very soft... if you are climbing 12- you probably won't be getting up this. Apr 28, 2013
Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
  5.12b/c
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
  5.12b/c
Really fun route! the crux for me was figuring out how to make the clip just before the anchors, couldn't find decent feet. Also the fixed draw at the crux clip[ is getting a little sketchy, make sure the gate closes. Jul 5, 2012
DTM
DTM  
Very soft. If you're cranking 12+ this should be a flash. Good route for sure. Sep 9, 2011
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
This is a great route...after making a long reach to a big hold at the lip (two handed), the fun begins!

To approach this little formation, hike up the Mill B North Fork trail past the S Turn area. A short distance past the switchbacks, the trail levels out. If you look to the left, towards the creek, you'll notice a small formation down in the trees. This is it, A short bushwhack leads to the base. Aug 9, 2010