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Wiretap
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 99
votes
Early Access
Routes in Olesen Creek Wall
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Eavesdrop T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Float like a Butterfly, Sting like a Bee (FLAB SLAB) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hearsay T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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La Superplanche T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0 R |
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Rumble in the Jungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thriller on the Pillar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wire Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wiretap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 49.675, -123.1517 |
| FA: | Damien McCombs, Brock wilson, and Jeremy Frimer |
| Page Views: | 6,977 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Aug 1, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A fun, four or five pitch route featuring a mix of moderate crack and slab climbing. All anchors are fixed.
P1 (10a) 35m - Up the long crack system ending up a short, fine splitter.
P2 (5.7) 15m - Can be linked with P1. Up a short 5.7 crack and then traverse right to a sweet belay atop a chopped tree.
P3 (5.9+/5.10-) 20m - The first ascenionists originally had placed 4 bolts of this pitch, but due to the availability of gear, removed all but one of them. The are certainly some hand size cams available, but take care placing them perfectly as the crack is flaring. I placed two #3 camalots on the way to the bolt.
P4 (5.8) 20m I linked this one with P3. Up a short corner and then left past a handful of bolts (going right goes to Wire Crack)
P5 (5.9) 25m Low angle slab padding.
Topo is available (2010):
http://www.jeremyfrimer.com/uploads/2/1/2/7/21278832/wire_tap_aug_25_2011.pdf
See this thread for information about the route, topo, and a discussion of the bolt removal.
http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?t=2547
23 Comments