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Routes in Olesen Creek Wall

Eavesdrop T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Float like a Butterfly, Sting like a Bee (FLAB SLAB) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hearsay T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumble in the Jungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thriller on the Pillar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiretap T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Damien McCombs, Brock wilson, and Jeremy Frimer
Page Views: 2,490 total, 28/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 1, 2010 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

A fun, four or five pitch route featuring a mix of moderate crack and slab climbing. All anchors are fixed.

P1 (10a) 35m - Up the long crack system ending up a short, fine splitter.

P2 (5.7) 15m - Can be linked with P1. Up a short 5.7 crack and then traverse right to a sweet belay atop a chopped tree.

P3 (5.9+/5.10-) 20m - The first ascenionists originally had placed 4 bolts of this pitch, but due to the availability of gear, removed all but one of them. The are certainly some hand size cams available, but take care placing them perfectly as the crack is flaring. I placed two #3 camalots on the way to the bolt.

P4 (5.8) 20m I linked this one with P3. Up a short corner and then past a handful of bolts.

P5 (5.9) 25m Low angle slab padding.

Topo is available (2010):
http://www.jeremyfrimer.com/uploads/2/1/2/7/21278832/wire_tap_aug_25_2011.pdf

See this thread for information about the route, topo, and a discussion of the bolt removal.

http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?t=2547

Location

Follow the directions on the Olesen Creek page. This route starts right in the middle of the main wall - aiming for a angling crack up high.

Protection

Nuts and double cams from fingers to #3 camalot.

Photos

Climbed today. Start looks mossy, but everything you need is clean as can be. Linked pitches 1&2 and 3&4 into wire crack. Jul 17, 2017
Incredible route! We finished pitch 4 and had to rap due to nightfall setting in.

It was a bit mossy on the bottom, but every is there. Makes for a slightly more interesting lead ;) We wished we had brought some brushes up to help scrub it.

More beta on the rappels!

Pitch 3 only has hangers. But pitch 4 is close to climb to.
We rappeled from the 4th pitch (5.8)
Our 70m rope made it a few feet above the anchor of the beautiful belay spot the end of pitch 2. Some long slings and creativity, and we were ok to set up the next rappel safely. Tie knots! Seriously.

There was a short rappel (10m-15m or so) straight down from the pitch 2 anchors. It was on a fairly mossey face, has shiny newish hangars and chains, with a tiny foot ledge for comfort. It is to the right of pitch one anchors.
Set up your next rappel there to ensure you will touch ground.

We might have gone a funny way, but in case anyone else ends up in the same
situation, there is the beta.

Have fun! :) Jun 22, 2017
Rose H  
Finishing on Wire Crack totally made this climb for me. Awesome finger crack that's over all too soon. Aug 22, 2016
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
Really fun. Couple notes.

1) three purple camalots would not go unused, but two is fine.

2) thriller on the pillar is a great start. Link to the stump belay.

3) link pitch 3/4.

4) on rappel from wire crack, when you wonder where the hell the next station is, it's around the corner to the right. Aug 12, 2016
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Climbed it again by starting up Thriller on the Piller and finishing on Wire Crack. Thriller is an awesome pitch and provdes a "harder" start. Wire Crack was pretty short all things considered.... Aug 8, 2013
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
a great addition to the area that will, undoubtedly, become a popular classic. the first pitch (combine 1 and 2) is super fun, and the belay is probably the coolest belay i have ever had (or at least in the top handful). the following pitches up to the wiretap crack are fun, and surprisingly techy. wiretap crack is beautiful, the granite is sort of a polished gold that is similar to parts of tuolomne or yosemite. you wish it would go on for 240 feet.... Aug 5, 2013
DCSwish23
Maine/Spain
DCSwish23   Maine/Spain
Using a 70m rope it was quite easy to link pitches and I would especially link the second since it's so short and easy. Aug 22, 2011
Toby Foord-Kelcey
  5.10a/b
Toby Foord-Kelcey  
  5.10a/b
An excellent route. Jeremy Frimer is a hard-working and creative guy. How many people must have looked at the buttress from the Sea-to-Sky and pondered the potential - but got no further ... Jan 5, 2011