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Wiretap

5.10a, Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.8 from 41 votes
FA: Damien McCombs, Brock wilson, and Jeremy Frimer
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Chief > Olesen Creek Wall
Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A fun, four or five pitch route featuring a mix of moderate crack and slab climbing. All anchors are fixed.

P1 (10a) 35m - Up the long crack system ending up a short, fine splitter.

P2 (5.7) 15m - Can be linked with P1. Up a short 5.7 crack and then traverse right to a sweet belay atop a chopped tree.

P3 (5.9+/5.10-) 20m - The first ascenionists originally had placed 4 bolts of this pitch, but due to the availability of gear, removed all but one of them. The are certainly some hand size cams available, but take care placing them perfectly as the crack is flaring. I placed two #3 camalots on the way to the bolt.

P4 (5.8) 20m I linked this one with P3. Up a short corner and then past a handful of bolts.

P5 (5.9) 25m Low angle slab padding.

Topo is available (2010):
jeremyfrimer.com/uploads/2/…

See this thread for information about the route, topo, and a discussion of the bolt removal.

squamishclimbing.com/squami…

Location

Follow the directions on the Olesen Creek page. This route starts right in the middle of the main wall - aiming for a angling crack up high.

Protection

Nuts and double cams from fingers to #3 camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

pitch 3, a 5.9 or 10a crack
[Hide Photo] pitch 3, a 5.9 or 10a crack
the end of pitch 4... easy but interesting face climbing
[Hide Photo] the end of pitch 4... easy but interesting face climbing
Wire Tap from the start
[Hide Photo] Wire Tap from the start

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Toby Foord-Kelcey
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] An excellent route. Jeremy Frimer is a hard-working and creative guy. How many people must have looked at the buttress from the Sea-to-Sky and pondered the potential - but got no further ... Jan 5, 2011
DCSwish23
Maine/Spain
[Hide Comment] Using a 70m rope it was quite easy to link pitches and I would especially link the second since it's so short and easy. Aug 22, 2011
slim

  5.10a
[Hide Comment] a great addition to the area that will, undoubtedly, become a popular classic. the first pitch (combine 1 and 2) is super fun, and the belay is probably the coolest belay i have ever had (or at least in the top handful). the following pitches up to the wiretap crack are fun, and surprisingly techy. wiretap crack is beautiful, the granite is sort of a polished gold that is similar to parts of tuolomne or yosemite. you wish it would go on for 240 feet.... Aug 5, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Climbed it again by starting up Thriller on the Piller and finishing on Wire Crack. Thriller is an awesome pitch and provdes a "harder" start. Wire Crack was pretty short all things considered.... Aug 8, 2013
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Really fun. Couple notes.

1) three purple camalots would not go unused, but two is fine.

2) thriller on the pillar is a great start. Link to the stump belay.

3) link pitch 3/4.

4) on rappel from wire crack, when you wonder where the hell the next station is, it's around the corner to the right. Aug 12, 2016
[Hide Comment] Finishing on Wire Crack totally made this climb for me. Awesome finger crack that's over all too soon. Aug 22, 2016
[Hide Comment] Incredible route! We finished pitch 4 and had to rap due to nightfall setting in.

It was a bit mossy on the bottom, but every is there. Makes for a slightly more interesting lead ;) We wished we had brought some brushes up to help scrub it.

More beta on the rappels!

Pitch 3 only has hangers. But pitch 4 is close to climb to.
We rappeled from the 4th pitch (5.8)
Our 70m rope made it a few feet above the anchor of the beautiful belay spot the end of pitch 2. Some long slings and creativity, and we were ok to set up the next rappel safely. Tie knots! Seriously.

There was a short rappel (10m-15m or so) straight down from the pitch 2 anchors. It was on a fairly mossey face, has shiny newish hangars and chains, with a tiny foot ledge for comfort. It is to the right of pitch one anchors.
Set up your next rappel there to ensure you will touch ground.

We might have gone a funny way, but in case anyone else ends up in the same
situation, there is the beta.

Have fun! :) Jun 22, 2017
Kyle Wall
Richmond, BC
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Climbed today. Start looks mossy, but everything you need is clean as can be. Linked pitches 1&2 and 3&4 into wire crack. Jul 17, 2017
[Hide Comment] Just went and climbed wire tap (super fun and great shady option) Took us a while to find it

APPROACH BETA!!
The bridge has been removed, and the Shannon falls trail has been re-routed past the gondola and will take you to the wrong area, DO NOT TAKE THE SHANNON FALLS TRAIL. Also a staircase has been added lower than the old "first staircase"

You take the chief peak trail until partway up the second wooden staircase and then cross the creak (hop across rocks) if you hit the sign that says "no access drinking water source" you went too far. after crossing the stream you can basically follow the trail uphill to the left until you hit the wall.

We linked pitches 1/2 and pitches 3/4 and did pitch 5 as well, might have been able to link pitch 5 with 3/4 hard to say. Great belay spots made for a very enjoyable multipitch. Pitch 5 is very well bolted and I enjoyed the entire climb. Jul 18, 2018
Eugene Kwan 1
Cambridge, Massachusetts
[Hide Comment] Excellent route! This is good as the other classics at Slhany, but seems to get much less traffic. We climbed Thriller on the Pillar to Wire Crack, and had a wonderful outing. From the other comments here, it seems that this linkup is a very good choice and I would highly recommend it. The first pitch is somewhat dirty, but it doesn't get in the way of the climbing, and I imagine the cleanliness will improve with more traffic.

All anchors are bolted. Assuming you do Wire Crack: instead of rappelling down the route, go directly down with one 70 m rope. There are nice bolted stations the entire way and none of the rappels will be close to the end.

Rack: single to 4", doubles from 0.3-#3, triple 0.5.

P1 (Thriller on the Pillar): A cool pitch. As noted by others here, it is wide at the bottom and narrows at the top. Finding your way can be a bit confusing due to all the moss. I hopped back and forth between all the cracks. Save a purple (0.5) and gray (0.4) camalot for the top. This crux is mostly about finding the right body positioning--it is not strenuous.

P2: Easy 5.7 crack. Should be linked with P1 if you have any gear left. There is indeed a memorable belay seat here.

P3: Although graded easier than P1, this felt like real 5.10 to me and the crux of the route. This is a strenuous and flared hand crack. I recommend tape for this pitch (and only this one). There is a two bolt anchor here with quick links (but no rappel ring).

P4: Short 5.9 (easy for grade) up and right to a ledge.

P5: Wire Crack! Another 10a flared fingers to tight hand crack, but much easier than P3. Pad up an easy slab with no protection to the top (you don't need it, either).

Enjoy the view from up there! There's a cool-looking route near/right of the rappel line. Anyone know what it is? Aug 14, 2018