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Routes in Buffalo Rock

Buffalo Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Desert Rat Brigade 2003 FFA: Daniel Max Christiansen, Brooks Mason 2005
Page Views: 881 total, 10/month
Shared By: Daniel Max Christiansen on Jun 18, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Very sustained 5.10 climbing as the crack is slightly overhung. This is a very seldom-climbed route so, though the crack is very bomber, it is sandy in parts. Short but sweet with an interesting rappel (see protection) in an incredibly beautiful, quiet part of the park.

Location

Buffalo Crack is located on the west side of Buffalo Rock

Protection

Standard desert rack, the crack takes mostly #1 and #0.5 cams. The anchor consists of two dicey petons pounded into a chausy layer on the left-hand side of the notch at the top, so bring larger (#3, #4) cams to back it up at the base of the notch if belaying from the top.

The best (and safest) way to climb the route is to lead it, top out, and clip in. Then have the leader lower the rope off of the opposite side of the fin so it is essentially folded over it. Have the belayer put the 'rope' back on belay from the crack side of the fin, and finally have the leader rappel off of the belayers body weight off of the opposite side.

Photos

mutgoff
5.11d
mutgoff  
5.11d
Sandbagged, but worth the hike. Mar 10, 2013
broppler
Oakland
 
broppler   Oakland
 
mid-dees. Mar 10, 2013