All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Arches NP > Buffalo Rock

Buffalo Crack

Name: Buffalo Crack
Rating: 3.5

5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Buffalo Rock

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Buffalo Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
GPS:	38.6242, -109.59939
FA:	Desert Rat Brigade 2003 FFA: Daniel Max Christiansen, Brooks Mason 2005
Page Views:	1,730 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Daniel Max Christiansen on Jun 18, 2010
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

Very sustained 5.10 climbing as the crack is slightly overhung. This is a very seldom-climbed route so, though the crack is very bomber, it is sandy in parts. Short but sweet with an interesting rappel (see protection) in an incredibly beautiful, quiet part of the park.

Location

Buffalo Crack is located on the west side of Buffalo Rock

Protection

Standard desert rack, the crack takes mostly #1 and #0.5 cams. The anchor consists of two dicey petons pounded into a chausy layer on the left-hand side of the notch at the top, so bring larger (#3, #4) cams to back it up at the base of the notch if belaying from the top.

The best (and safest) way to climb the route is to lead it, top out, and clip in. Then have the leader lower the rope off of the opposite side of the fin so it is essentially folded over it. Have the belayer put the 'rope' back on belay from the crack side of the fin, and finally have the leader rappel off of the belayers body weight off of the opposite side.