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Routes in White Lightning

White Lightning T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Reid Dowdle 1979
Page Views: 2,576 total, 28/month
Shared By: Toby on Jun 1, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Private Property - recently CLOSED TO CLIMBING and all public access. Details

Description

A very sweet hand crack in a left facing corner. Steep fun Layback crux. Some nice patina jugs at the top.

Location

Located just west of the North Twin Sister, on the south side of a gap in the ridge. Belay in a cool pool on top. Down-climb off the right side.

Protection

Hand/ big hand sized cams and a few aliens or small stoppers for the top.

Photos

This area is closed to the public. It is trespassing if you travel out there. Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb here until further notice. Aug 12, 2016
jomey
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10
jomey   Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10
Personal gear beta on this:
2x #0.75, 2x #1, 2x #2, blue DMM Walnut for the top move

Did not place a single #3. Only helpful for building an anchor at the top. Oct 8, 2015
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10a
Pure hand-jams all the way up to the traverse. Although they were pretty tipped out hands (my knuckles were feeling it). Go deep in the crack and you'll find them.

I placed a #3 halfway in the left traverse roof. It held my two 10ft falls! The way I did the traverse was I hand jammed the first 1/3, then transitioned to a lie-back when the edge got more positive. That's the great thing about this route, is the edge that you're lie-backing on only gets better the further you get! Amazing.

Small gear for the top section. And I built my anchor in a crack at the top (in a little pod that overlooks the top half of the route) with a #1, #2, and #3. So maybe leave the #4 at home! That thing is heavy. Aug 6, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Nah, just normal-sized mitts, Alex. I was able to reach through or jam deeply in the wider sections, maybe arm barring the one really wide pod near the beginning. I dunno, it just seemed more hand jam oriented to me and pretty pure compared to other City routes. But I have a lot of experience at that wide hand size, and there's definitely more than one way to climb most climbs. Cheers!

BTW, I was just browsing one of the climbing mags and this route was featured as one of the underground classics at the City. Couldn't agree more! Oct 12, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10b
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10b
Colonel, you've got some big mitts my friend and know how to jam a widish crack! When I climbed this route, there happened to be a slight covering of moss. Maybe it was because it had rained a day or two prior. Oct 5, 2012
josh holcomb
Las Vegas, NV
josh holcomb   Las Vegas, NV
I found a camera out here about a week ago. If you are looking for it the camera is in the lost and found at the visitor center. Sep 14, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
More of a lieback than a jam crack? I guess you can lieback any crack if you want but I found the reverse to be true on this climb. Although, the crux (for me) was liebacking out of the overhanging hand jam roof. Different strokes, or, er, jams I guess.

Also, I did not find the crack to need cleaning or to require more than two #3 cams.

We'll have to bring our dispute to the route setter on this one. Aug 28, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10b
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10b
Sustained, bring every #3 camalot you own, more of a lieback than a jam, awkward and dirty. Could use some cleaning, otherwise fun climbing! Fixed Hex at diagonal lieback section. Aug 13, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Far better than all the other 10a's I did this trip. White Lightning was much more sustained as an actual crack climb than others since - and unlike much City climbing - there are hardly any face holds, just overhanging jamming and only a tiny bit of patina scrambling at the top.

If you like waiting in line for overrated moderates, go to Bloody Fingers, etc.. If you like excellent climbing in an uncrowded, remote feeling setting, then this is your jam.

I used a #4 camalot I'd back cleaned, a #3 camalot, and a yellow alien-sized piece for the anchor, so you may not want to expend all these pieces. #2 and #1 actually work very well to protect the climbing if placed in the right sections. Jun 26, 2012
Sean A Smith
South Salt Lake, UT
 
Sean A Smith   South Salt Lake, UT
 
What a great pitch! The formation is super easy to find as it's visible and obvious from the two track road as you walk in. May 16, 2012
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
Great Route, sucks up #2 and #3 camalots. Used a number 4 after pulling the roof and glad to have it. May 24, 2011
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
Useful info from the '06 Bingham guidebook:

"...located just west of the North Twin Sister, on the south side of a gap in the ridge."

"One of the classic layback/jam climbs of the City." Jun 1, 2010