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Routes in Central Gully Left

Beautiful Possibilities T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Fleece T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Ending T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellspite T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hyaena T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jason T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paladin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pedro T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Squeakeasy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straw Dogs T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 83 total · 1/month
Shared By: sibylle Hechtel on May 26, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

This route, rated Australian 10, which translates to 5.5, is very enjoyable but felt harder than any 5.5 I've climbed in the States. Head up, and left of, the large crack partway up the left side of the Central gully.

Location

HIke up the left side of the Central Gully toward the obvious large crack / corner.

Protection

Nuts, cams,

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.7
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.7
This route is not PG13 in the slightest, though definitely harder than 5.5... let's just say grade conversion isn't an exact science. Apr 11, 2016
sibylle Hechtel
Colorado
 
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
 
Thanks! What would you rate it -- it's been a few years since I climbed Pedro. Apr 13, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.7
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.7
I gave it a 5.7, but I didn't lead it either. I started climbing at Smith Rock and spent a lot of time learning trad in Colorado. Arapiles has the same old-school grading, but a lot of the classic moderates are just straight sandbagged.

Tiptoe Ridge is 5.0?
The traverse on the Bard is 5.5?
The second pitch of Lamplighter is 5.7?

So, out of respect for that style of grading, sure, Pedro is a 5.7. But for the most part, do the grades accurately translate? Not so much. Apr 13, 2016

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