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Routes in Lunch Rocks

2 Minutes Under Water TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Another Day Another Dollar V6 7A
Chong Li V7 7A+
Diamond In The Rough V7 7A+
Hard Again V3 6A
No Wonder V7 7A+
Orifice Affair V2 5+
Roughage V7 7A+ PG13
Sculpture V2 5+
Smooth Move V8 7B
Tell Mama V1 5
Wonder Dyno, The V10 7C+
Wonderhole V1 5
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Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,239 total · 12/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Apr 20, 2010 with updates from Owen S.
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

**Effective December 2014 this climb is closed**

This stellar problem doesn't have any super difficult moves, but every move is solid with a consistent difficulty until the top.
Begin on a good left facing sidepull and climb left through a decent pinch to a small undercling. From here make a big move to a good crimp, match and make a committing move to a jug. This gives a chance for a shake as while from here things ease up, it will keep you on your toes until the top.

Probably on the easier side of V7, but the excitement of a possible fall makes up for it.

Location

Located in the Lunch Rocks area, with careful spotting, Roughage should be visible from the trail. It is located on the level above The Wonder Dyno and Chong Li.

Protection

The more pads and spotters the better. The landing area is pretty uneven at the start and the finish is pretty high above an annoyingly placed boulder and tree.

As Sherman eloquently writes "Tempting bad landings below the first moves and a melon-splitting block behind the lip. Terrifying, technical."

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Not to mention the hole next to the boulder that leads to a drop off. The boulder itself has a sharp ridge that runs towards the problem. Thankfully when you are over all this you are on the V3 finishing moves, but you will be death gripping. Apr 20, 2010
Jason Carlson
El Paso, TX
Jason Carlson   El Paso, TX
As of December 2014 this climb has been closed by the park staff. Dec 19, 2014
@Jason. Woah really? That's a bummer. Anyone care to elaborate? Was there a pictograph or something on it? Jan 4, 2015
Owen S.
Los Alamos
Owen S.   Los Alamos
I believe (and correct me if I am wrong) but there is a small pictograph on the underside of the boulder. Recently someone had added a sit start to the problem, I don't know if this directly contributed to the closure or not, but from the sit start there was risk of harming the art I guess. Feb 3, 2015
Jason Carlson
El Paso, TX
Jason Carlson   El Paso, TX
Owen is correct. Apparently there was some really low chalk near the pictograph which caused the whole thing to be shut down. One of the rangers told me it's possible that the classic stand start could reopen as long as the SDS isn't climbed but that seems like wishful thinking at this point. Aug 11, 2015
MikeZ
Albuquerque, NM
MikeZ   Albuquerque, NM
Oh no, is this closure still in effect? I had always dreamt of doing this route and am finally in shape to do so. Sep 28, 2016

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