Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Dick Laptad and Charles Bates, Aug. 1966|
|Page Views:||79 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tater Tot on Apr 13, 2010|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
DescriptionThis route starts in a crack on the left side of the Needles Eye Tunnel. There is also a chimney on the east side which can be climbed. The crack is more on the southeast corner of the spire. Climb up this crack with poor quality rock caused by the road blast, working your way up and left. Be careful of jugs - they do break on this route. You'll get a good rest at a large flake which you can sling before continuing up the face following a small crack, moving slightly right and onto the arete for the last few moves.
If you can keep your head together through the crumbly and difficult to protect 5.8 moves down low, the top of the spire offers excellent quality rock, high exposure, and very delicate moves on extremely small crystals with extra spice due to the lack of good quality protection.