Southeast Ridge

Hill's guide indicates this is 5.2. I'd say 5.4 to 5.6 by today's standards although hardly sustained for any pitch. 

I've climbed this twice in early March. That time of year, a handful of warm-ish days will dry things out well enough although the descent will likely still have some snow, sometimes warranting boots and gaitors.

P1 / P2 / P3 (variable number),  ~130m, 3rd to low 5th:   Scramble and hike the ridge to a ~1 foot diameter tree (pitch-y!) just before the ridge dramatically steepens to vertical.  Before the tree, cross a ~10m dirty notch in the ridge.

About "P1 / P2 / P3":  The cleaner but more challenging climbing is usually on the left while easier but dirtier / looser rock is on the right.  If roped up, make intermediate belays where it makes sense.  Various trees may have webbing of variable age and are not necessarily indicators of where to set a belay anchor.

P4 , ~35m, 5.6:  From the ~1 foot diameter tree, climb right and up a hand crack that is to the right of the ridge.  Higher, pass a large pod / cave to its' right.  Continue up and right over blocks and kitty litter to the base of an obvious chimney (8" to 9" gear, optional?).  Ascend the chimney, perhaps plugging gear in a crack on the left.  For good comms with follower, belay at the top of the chimney; or continue up along the ridge to a dirty notch at 35m (3" gear useful for belay) or continue another 15 feet higher to a tree (healthy as of 2022).

P5,  ~45m, easy 5th:  Ascend the ridge passing to the left of a short leftward facing dihedral with partially driven piton near its' top - girth hitch it with a sling? Higher up, pass leftward of a much larger tree and scramble up blocky terrain to summit.

VARIATIONS:

a) Roughly 100m up the route, there is a 5.6 deviation via a traversing ramp out on the west face. This is not easy to protect (i.e., "Express Lane Variation" - Brian Holcomb, Mark Fuge, 10/88). We did it in two pitches. It rejoins the main route at the notch of "P2".

b) The chimney can be avoided by climbing mostly straight up from the right side of the pod, perhaps with a jog left on a flat ledge to gain the ridge. Again, this section is a little disconcerting given the quality of the rock.

c) As a variation to the last pitch, Hill's guide shows a 5.6 way out on the west face which we have not fully explored (i.e., "Express Lane Variation" - Brian Holcomb, Mark Fuge, 10/88). There is a needed old bolt that should probably be replaced (~2010).