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5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.43666, -105.31171 |
| FA: | FRA: Jason Seaver, Nate Arganbright, 1-7-2006 |
| Page Views: | 1,401 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | jason seaver on Feb 16, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is pretty much the central line up the longest and steepest section on the cliff. Two pitches of great crack climbing. Pitch 2 was a little dirty, but not bad at all.
This is the only route we did on the crag that I felt like might have been climbed before. Maybe just because it's such a proud, obvious line. I'd love to hear about any previous activity / ascents up here.
Location
In the center of the cliff is a steep, left-facing corner, starting 100' off the ground, that goes through three roofs. This is pitch 2. Pitch 1 climbs the right-most crack in the slab beneath this corner, pulling the left side of a hanging dagger / overlap 30' up. This crack leads to a low-angle chimney that dumps you out on a slab beneath the very obvious, cracked overhang. Belay on this slab. Pitch 2 climbs the left-most crack through the overhang and the steep corner above. We stepped out left before the top-most roof but, with big cams, you could pull this hard-looking offwidth roof crack as the finale.
Walk / scramble off to the East.



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