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Routes in Hopkinton State Park

Black Carpet Ride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Carpet Trip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Numb World V4 6B
PIED V0 4
Trunk Line V1 5 R
White Way V3 6A
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Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Josh Comeau
Page Views: 397 total, 4/month
Shared By: jcomeau2 Comeau on Feb 14, 2010
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

Start on a very thin arete with a pinch on the left hand. Move right heel around right and settle in a shallow divot. Rock onto heel reach high with right hand to a very bad, sloping, sidepull-type hold. Move left up high and bump right up to a better side pull and then pull on top. The crux is moving the right heel over as it is hard to stay on.

Location

From the park HQ on Cedar Street, find the Chipmunk Trail on the the right side of parking lot. Follow the trail till you find a boulder right on the trail. Bushwhack left into the woods following a slight rise till you see the boulder.

Protection

Two pads and spotters.

Photos

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DFrench
Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
You're right. Josh PM'd me and said that this problem tops out to the right. You can see the sidepull that has been excavated from the moss. Mar 22, 2010
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
There is chalk on the right side of this problem. I was trying a line up that. I believe the actual problem did top out just right of the arete. I'll have to tell Josh to chime in. Mar 2, 2010
DFrench
Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
Is this the "Arete Rock" that is mentioned on p. 111 of Boston Rocks 2nd Ed. ? I couldn't find it using the book's directions, but I went and checked out the rock using the OP's directions and it seemed to fit what the book was trying to say.

Anyways, this is a great looking problem with excellent quality granite, looking forward to getting on it at some point.

Question to the OP, does this problem top out to the right of the arete (climber's right) or do you go left? Feb 26, 2010