Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,021 total · 34/month
Shared By: Eddie Brown on Feb 10, 2010
Admins: Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Phoenix South Mountain Park & Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

DANGER: The rock on this route has flexed and weakened over years of use, especially people climbing after rains, before the rock dries out. The large slab that forms the rail WILL BREAK and there is a possibility the climber could be crushed underneath it. Proceed using caution, or not at all.

Start in back left of overhang using the big hold under the roof. Pop out to the lip and traverse the lip into the large pockets/huecos. Top out in middle.

There is also a V2/3ish traverse that continues the entire length of the roof and tops out at the far right end.

Protection Suggest change

You may want to have some one pull a pad as you traverse because you will have your hands and heels committed as you traverse the lip. This is often done w/o pads and it is only a 2 or 3 foot fall.

Beware of the rock flexing and the potential to crush the climber. 

Location Suggest change

From the Entrance boulders (the area with Tsunami Arete and the Tongue), continue up the wash 2 or 3 minutes. The wash will flatten out into a little plateau. This short flat area will lead up to a wall that is maybe 15 or 20 feet tall without any climbs. It is obvious that water sometimes runs over this wall. In the center of the wash before this wall is the overhang with Hookers are Fun. There may not be chalk on the outer parts but there will almost certainly be chalk on the inner lip. It is to the right of the trail that goes up the canyon.

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