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Routes in Shady Side West

Chromatic Aberration S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Escape Velocity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Primeval Atmosphere S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Primordial Soup S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Subdivisions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: M. Tupper, E. Tupper
Page Views: 385 total, 4/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Feb 2, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Closed March 15 through June 30 Details

Description

A doozie from the word "climbing", this highly sequential, highly sustained route will perplex or just plain upset most climbers.

Gripping at its nicest with clenched fists at their finest, you may just develop carpel tunnel after a solid strike at this route. Three fingered pockets, long reaches, a difficult to read sequence...whoa nelly!

There's a lot of climbing in this short 40 feet, and while all of it is great, there's a good chance you won't enjoy it until its over.

Location

The fourth route from the right at the Shady Side West.

Protection

Four bolts and an anchor.

Photos

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Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c
I think this might be one of the better lines at this cliff, save for some of the 12's. Blowing the 2nd clip might have some consequences, but a finding a good clipping stance or just stick clipping the 2nd bolt takes care of that issue. Worth the walk down here for this route! Jan 19, 2015
John Groh  
 
Absolutely awesome. Thin and technical, and almost dead vertical through the first few bolts. A must do if you're in the area. I imagine the start might be harder for shorter people. Bring your fanciest of footwork. Dec 2, 2013
Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
  5.11d PG13
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
  5.11d PG13
First bolt is high off the ground with a dangerous landing area (and for me the bottom moves felt like the hardest on the route). I suggest bringing your stick clip or do as a top rope. Jan 23, 2012