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Routes in Bear Mountain

Clan of the Cave Bear, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Oski T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turtle Dome T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ursa Minor T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Birchum
Page Views: 1,735 total, 18/month
Shared By: mcarizona on Jan 11, 2010 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start up the East side of the mudrock spire. There is a step-across to a crack, onto some ledges then to a bolt at a headwall. Mantle up, make the next high clip and go around the North side of the Spire to find a belay at the base of a gully. P2 -
Up the double cracks to a fine 3/4 inch crack to finish at chains. One 60 meter rope will need some stretching to get off (send the Tallest guy down first (maybe use knots)).

Location

Park at the Bear Mountain trailhead just past Fay canyon (if approaching from Sedona). Hike the trail to the top of the first mesa and break right at a wash very close to the twin towers on your right. You will see pitch two in the shadows up high. Go to the saddle between the two towers and look for a crack on the East side with a loose looking TV sized block at the base.

Protection

micros on up to 3"

Photos

Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
Very fun route, mostly good quality rock, up a great little tower. No anchor bolts at end of pitch 1 as Bloom/Wolfe guide shows. Bring large stoppers for belay instead. Could not find even one place to put any micros as the gear section calls for. I'd say complete set of stoppers, singles of cams from 3/4" to 3", and a half dozen slings/long runners.

Rappel is 110' on chain anchor. 70m perfect, but we did it easily with a 60m with some very easy downclimbing.

Bloom/Wolfe guide calls the route 9; MP gives it 7+. We found it about 5.9 on the first pitch at the first bolt if you climb steep slab straight up from bolt. On lead I moved 6 ft right and climbed up bigger holds at 7+.

(There is some misleading gear w/ long runners that look like a rap station but were probably used to back off the tower. They are on the SE side and are totally off route. Go up to the obvious saddle/ridge from there to start.) Oct 21, 2016
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
One of the better moderate towers.
P1: Ledge-humping up to the roof with a 5.9 slab sequence (only 10' off a fat ledge) thrown in.
...move belay around corner...
P2: Jams the whole way. Surprisingly nice stembox (both corners eat hand-sized gear) to a fun little 5.8 roof move.
Rappel with single 70-m rope to ground. Apr 4, 2016
I am fairly certain this climb is at 34.900073, -111.868388

Its very difficult to see the 'twin peaks' from the road unless you know what you are looking for. Oct 23, 2014