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Routes in The Elephant's Head (& Hyperion Slab)

Aenea S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amarillo By Morning S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brachiation Dance S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Don't Mess With Muleshoe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Endymion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goldline S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hyperion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lonestar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Poke Salad Annie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pretty Good at Drinkin' Beer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skyline S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Urban Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Rose of Texas S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1999 -Savage
Page Views: 1,694 total, 18/month
Shared By: Spider Savage on Jan 5, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Holds are thin getting up the first 30 feet. Once you pass the 3rd bolt the rating drops from 5.9 to 5.2 the rest of the way. Belay at about 80ft for the harder sport climb. 2nd pitch is a 5.2 romp up the ridge to the summit for a full rope length.

Location

Left side of Hyperion Slab.

Protection

Quickdraws, bolted
Jim H
Pasadena, CA
5.9+ R
Jim H   Pasadena, CA
5.9+ R
1) The first bolt was solid when I climbed it this weekend. 2 & 3 were spinners, but the terrain was easy. The crux bolt is solid so I felt safe pulling the crux. The crux is very height dependent and clipping the crux bolt will be hard for anyone 5'6" or under.

2) The crux is very height dependent (but fun). I'm 6'1" and pulled through just fine. My 5'2" partner struggled a lot more and found the route much more burly. I'f you're tall the rating is more like 5.9. Crux was fun though.

Overall the routes a great and more challenging way to get to the easyslabs and summit above. Apr 21, 2014
Dwook
  5.10a
Dwook  
  5.10a
I am 6'4 and the move felt like an easy 5.10. However, when my girlfriend, who is 5'6, tried this she struggled to reach the handhold making it much harder for her. Feb 3, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10a
The 1st three bolts on "Endymion" are spinners, but the one that counts at the crux is solid. Protection consists of 5 bolts & a 2-bolt anchor with large screwlinks. Dec 28, 2011
J.B.
 
J.B.  
 
At 6'0" I can just barely clip the bolt at the crux before fully commiting. It's a fun climb, but the crux clip isn't exactly optimal.

Edit: I guess this comment belongs to Aenea Mar 27, 2011
Upgraded from 5.9 to 5.10b. The first time you climb it it can be hard. Especially for shorter people. There are a couple of long reaches that are easier for me at 6'1" that require the full wingspan. Apr 10, 2010