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Routes in The Elephant's Head (& Hyperion Slab)

Aenea S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amarillo By Morning S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brachiation Dance S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Don't Mess With Muleshoe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Endymion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goldline S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hyperion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lonestar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Poke Salad Annie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pretty Good at Drinkin' Beer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skyline S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Urban Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Rose of Texas S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: (?) early
Page Views: 3,227 total · 31/month
Shared By: Spider Savage on Jan 5, 2010 with updates from Benjamin Chapman
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

5.6 crux is 20 ft from the ground. The rest is 5.2 or less. Others have averaged this and rated it 5.4. HISTORY: this route is a composite of work by several people including myself in 1998 when I replaced and added some bolts. The original 1/4 inch rusty bolts are still at the top. someone recently added a bolt to the crux for some reason. The original line had 80-100 ft runouts. Now the longest is about 40 feet but the climbing is 5.0 on that bit. I took the liberty of naming it Goldline in honor of the cheap nylon climbing ropes we uses in the 1970s.

Location

Hyperion Slab right side.

Protection

Quick draws only.
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
One of the belay bolts is a sketchy 3/8 allen key bolt w/ a homade hanger. Not the best thing to greet you after a 30ft runout. Apr 19, 2010
Spider Savage
Los Angeles, ID
 
Spider Savage   Los Angeles, ID
 
Someone adding bolts to existing routes???? Okay, whatever. Goldline could certainly use a few replacements and an addition here and there. Put one in the middle of the 30 ft run-out to the first belay. Replace that first rusty bolt up the trough from the midway belay. Not much more needed though. Perhaps upgrade belay.

Much new route potential to the right of Goldline if anyone feels like drilling. Oct 14, 2010
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
The belays are all fresh, but the first bolt on the 2nd pitch should be replaced soon. Jan 23, 2011
J.B.  
Ha! I thought I was going crazy but there did in fact used to be two bolts at the crux! The second bolt might have been unnecessary but it was nice having two bolts on texas canyon rock.. Mar 27, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.6
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.6
The hardware at the 1st belay (sketchy 3/8" allen key bolt w/ homemade hanger) was upgraded in January 2011. There is currently one bolt at the crux of "Goldline" and the holes where the chicken bolts were have been patched. The 1st bolt on P2 has been replaced with a new 3/8" X 4" Powers 5-piece bolt (06-15-11). "Goldline" (5.6) P1 - 5 bolts & P2 - 5 bolts. Jun 6, 2011
Led this last Tues. Pleasantly cool day. A few observations:

The second bolt has a SMC hanger, generally frowned upon by people installing modern bolts. The third bolt is completely surrounded by hollow rock and should be relocated. Because my belayer wasn't going to climb, I clipped the first pair of anchor bolts at 100 feet and kept going. At 200 feet, I was at least 100 feet from the top, so I traversed to a pair of bolts. I rapped and cleaned.

All bolts on this kind of rock should be half-inch thick and five inches long. All of the bolts I saw on this route are merely 3/8s. Mike Draper's new routes on the other side of the rock (Lower East Side) are 1/2 X 5 inches. That's the minimum that everyone should be installing at this place, unless you can place a bolt in a dense, fine-grained cobble that is of sufficient size and is solidly embedded. Apr 27, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.6
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.6
George...while I can't argue with your assertion that 1/2" bolts should be the standard at Texas Canyon, the lead bolts on the Lower East Side weren't placed by Mike. The bolts that Mike placed on his "new" routes on the north side were at North Dallas 40, which lays just west of Lower East Side. As for the hardware on "Goldline," the 2nd bolt with the SMC hanger and the 3rd bolt in the hollow sounding rock were replaced with 1/2" bolts as of 01/04/16. Happy trails.

Jan 1, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.6
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.6
The P1 anchor had a broken bolt. Apparently, folks have been trying to tighten down the 3/8" bolt because the Fixe ring was spinning and the shaft of the bolt broke. It pulled out by hand. A new 1/2" X 4" Powers 5 piece bolt was installed to replace it. May 7, 2016. May 7, 2016
Spider Savage
Los Angeles, ID
 
Spider Savage   Los Angeles, ID
 
20th Anniversary ascent today. (for me) Found this route in 1997 with about 4 bolts to reach the top including belay station at 80 feet. Thanks to Ben for bolt upgrades. [What's wrong with my early 1980's SCM hangers? ;-) ] Route seems to get a lot of traffic for an old crappy line. Routes to the right are more fun, but climb this one for history's sake. Feb 10, 2018
Jeff M
Los Angeles, CA
Jeff M   Los Angeles, CA
Fun mellow route. Wife and I climbed it on Sunday. Her first multi-pitch, and she led the second pitch (which is quite runout but VERY easy). I led the first pitch, did the start of She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy by accident. Climbing over the bulge still seemed easier than 5.6..maybe I missed the 5.8 bit? By the way, you can get down on 2 raps with a 60m rope: on your first rap head right and use an anchor that's about 40 feet down. On the second rap continue right and over the edge of the cave. Jun 25, 2018

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